The
megapixel race. Where did it start? Where will it end?
The race
is on
In 1996, I bought
my first digital camera, a Kodak DC40. At the time, it was one of
the only consumer cameras available and at 768 x 504 resolution,
it offered only a little more than one third of a megapixel. It
didn't even offer a way to view your pictures on the camera, but
it sure was cool. A year and a half later, I shelled out even
more cash for one of the next generation: an Olympus D600L with a
whopping megapixel of resolution. With that purchase, I became
aware that the megapixel race had begun and that I'd be spending
a lot of money on this new technology.
The good,
the bad, and the ugly
A lot has happened
since 1996. Manufacturers have added roughly a megapixel per year
to keep us drooling and upgrading as the balance of power begins
to show a strong shift from film to digital. As with many
advances in technology, it is good to step back from time to time
to take a look at where we've been and where we are going. How
many megapixels do you really need? Is anything lost along the
way or are the latest 8 MP cameras really 8 times better than the
1 MP versions from years ago?
To answer these
questions, we first need a little background. Since digital
cameras became widely available in the late 1990's, the "consumer"
camera, the small point-and-shoot style cameras marketed at the
masses, have all had image sensors ranging in size from about 6
to 9 millimeters across, roughly 1/4 the size of a postage stamp.
While the size of the sensor has not changed, manufacturers keep
finding ways to cram more pixels into the same 1/4 postage stamp
space.
This may sound
great at first, but as with most good things, there is a price to
be paid, and that price is image noise (grain). An image sensor
contains millions of photo sites, each of which is capable of
collecting a charge as light hits the cell. Unfortunately, there
is "overhead" involved since you must have some
circuitry to store, amplify, and shift the charge over to digital
data (the final image). As you decrease the ratio between the
size of the light detecting part of the cell and the size or
complexity of the electronics, noise increases. This noise can
often be seen as grain in images and will look a bit like multi-colored
"snow" from an old TV or even larger blotches of color
depending on the filtering used.
Megapixels,
taming the herd
An image sensor is
a bit like a radio antenna. The bigger the sensor, the more light
it can collect and therefore the less noise it will have. In
contrast to consumer cameras, most digital SLR's have sensors 8
times larger (or more), allowing them to capture more accurate
detail and also allowing them to operate effectively at higher
speeds (ISO equivalents). Digital SLR's are also designed with
much larger sensors in mind and they use larger, higher quality
lenses so it is fair to say that the SLR camera in general is
more "ready to accept" digital technology. On the other
hand, consumer cameras can be more of a challenge when trying to
increase resolution while holding the size of the sensor constant.
Most consumer cameras were designed around the 6-9 millimeter
sensor so increasing the size of the sensor is not cost effective
because it will require that the camera bodies (and possibly the
lenses) be redesigned. By increasing pixel count and keeping the
sensor size constant, manufacturers can use last year's camera
body, maybe add a feature or two, round off a few edges, change a
few buttons, add a pin stripe, and sell the same thing they sold
last year, but with more pixels.
Most consumer
cameras in the last few years have used what manufacturers like
to call a "1/1.8 inch" sensor which amounts to a sensor
about 7.2 x 5.3 millimeters. Obviously the advertised "1/1.8"
nomenclature is no indication of the actual sensor size. The 1/1.8
architecture was generally used for consumer cameras in the 2-4
megapixel range. Once manufacturers hit 4 MP, noise was on the
increase and compromises were being made. At 5 MP, some
manufacturers began switching to what they call a "2/3 inch"
sensor (8.8 x 6.6 millimeters), while the rest made the jump to
the larger sensor when they went from the 5 to 8 MP mark. Looking
at the sensor size alone, the increase may not look like a lot,
but the slightly larger sensor amounts to a 1.5 times increase in
overall size, giving manufacturers some breathing room to keep
moving forward in the megapixel race and alleviating many
complaints about noise.
Putting it
all into perspective
So what does all
this mean to people who are shopping for a digital camera? It
simply means that you need to consider more than the pixel count
when shopping for a camera that meets your needs. Don't buy into
the "8 is better than 5" marketing strategy without
considering other aspects of image quality:
    - Your
        needs: What you need to do with the camera is
        usually more important than the latest jump in resolution.
        Do you need a point and shoot camera that is simple and
        will fit into your pocket? Do you need an SLR with manual
        controls? How much telephoto work do you plan to do and
        might you need interchangeable lenses? Does the camera
        offer features that you would find beneficial such as a
        direct print option or a camera dock to print quick shots
        on site? How fast is the camera from shot to shot? Most
        of these questions can be answered with a little
        reflection on your part and by reading through online camera reviews. When you've narrowed the
        search to a few cameras that meet your needs, review some
        online samples at the end of the reviews from your
        various potential camera selections and compare similar
        shots to see which you like best. 
- Print
        size: How big do you need to print? If you plan
        to print 4x6 or smaller prints most of the time with an
        occasional 8x10, your camera choices will be much broader
        because it doesn't take as much resolution to print small
        sizes. Many people argue that 300 DPI (dots per inch) are
        needed for true photo quality and you may have seen a
        reference to 300 DPI, but there really is no overall
        magic number. Prints will generally still look like
        photos and won't suffer from noticeable pixelization (jaggies)
        down to about 150 DPI if you print with high quality
        printing software. Below about 150 DPI, prints start to
        show jaggies (stair steps in diagonal lines that should
        be smooth) or they will start to lose some sharpness. Use
        the following as a rough guideline to how many megapixels
        you really need: 
    
        
            | For a
            300 DPI print (super sharp photo intended for viewing
            up close) | 
        
            | Print Size | Resolution needed
            for 300 DPI print | 
        
            | 4x6 | about 2 MP | 
        
            | 5x7 | about 3 MP | 
        
            | 8x10 | about 6 MP | 
        
            | 11x14 | about 14 MP | 
        
            | 13x20 | about 23 MP | 
    
    
        
            | For a
            150 DPI print (photo quality when viewed at "arms
            length") | 
        
            | Print Size | Resolution needed
            for 150 DPI print | 
        
            | 4x6 | about 0.5 MP | 
        
            | 5x7 | about 1 MP | 
        
            | 8x10 | about 2 MP | 
        
            | 11x14 | about 3.4 MP | 
        
            | 13x20 | about 6 MP | 
    
    When using the tables above, note
    that it is important to realize that most larger prints are
    not scrutinized up close or with a magnifying glass and are
    meant to be viewed from a distance. You can often "get
    away with" much lower resolution when printing larger
    sizes simply because people will not usually notice that a
    150 DPI print is slightly softer than a 300 DPI print unless
    they study it very closely. Also note that the idea that you
    can get away with resolutions as low as 150 DPI depends on
    the printing tool that you use and assumes that the tool (or
    you) upsample (interpolate) the print to avoid noticeable
    jaggies.
    - Cropping: How
        often do you find the need to crop a section of the photo
        for printing? Does your technique or workflow often
        require that you crop the photo to get rid of unwanted
        portions of the image? If so, you need to take that into
        consideration when using the tables above since cropping
        an image reduces the resolution of the final print.
        Framing your photos better when you take the shot can
        reduce the resolution needed for the job because it means
        you won't have to waste pixels on things you don't need
        in the photo.
- Artifacts: What
        are you (or your intended "audience") sensitive
        to? Do you like super sharp photos? Do you notice noise (grain)
        in backgrounds like blue skies or shadows? Some of the
        latest 8 MP cameras have issues with chromatic
        aberrations (purple fringing around sharp edges or edges
        of high contrast). Do you notice this or see it as a
        problem when reviewing online samples? Does the camera
        render color that looks good to you? A lot of the buzz on
        the web regarding "my camera is better than yours"
        is subjective and the arguments for/against certain
        cameras will never be settled because different people
        look for different things in photos. Some focus on detail
        or resolution while others focus on accurate color, other
        artifacts in the images, and (lest we forget) some people
        actually focus on the photograph itself, the content, the
        framing, etc.
- User opinions: Be
        sure to check online forums and other online resources to see what
        people are saying about certain cameras. You may look
        through samples and decide you like photos from a certain
        camera better than others only to find out later that you
        are not able to achieve the same quality as the reviewer
        who shot the samples. A quick check in a few forums might
        show a lot of complaints from people really having to
        "tweak" photos to get good (usually color)
        quality, so make sure that the quality you see is
        attainable with your experience and time.
- Photography: This
        probably shouldn't be the last topic because it is so
        important. The quality of your pictures ultimately
        depends on your ability as a photographer and your
        ability to utilize your tools. I've seen amazing photos
        from 1.5 to 2 MP cameras that beat photos from 6 MP
        cameras just because the photographer took the time to
        learn the tools of his/her trade (the camera itself and
        any after-the-fact editing tools) and was simply able to
        take good photos. Let us not forget that the "8 MP"
        logo on your camera can't make you a better photographer,
        nor can it make the camera any easier for you to use.
        Learning techniques and tools from listening to others
        can be the best way to improve your photographs. A lot of
        people spend a lot of money each year just to have the
        latest technology. That can be a disappointing and not
        very rewarding process if you are lured into thinking
        that a newer camera will make you take better photographs.
        The latest technology can help, but often it is more a
        question of whether you know how to use it and/or whether
        or not the camera suits your needs.
- Mike Chaney