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Author Topic: Feature Request - Bleed Option  (Read 9259 times)
ThePhotoDude
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« on: July 19, 2009, 11:52:45 AM »

Firstly - Fantastic software!

A little request, I asked about a while back but I haven't seen it yet.

I quite often mount my work onto foam core etc. When I print, I like the image to be 5mm larger than the final trimmed size on the foam core.

I can easily increase the image size by 5mm on each edge, but I don't have the crop marks 5mm inside the print
It would be awesome if Qimage had a bleed function that could do this, WITH crop marks inside the bleed area.

One option could be having an option to place the corner crop marks x mm or x inch INSIDE the print.

Thanks
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Fred A
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2009, 12:17:11 PM »

Quote
One option could be having an option to place the corner crop marks x mm or x inch INSIDE the print.
I like that idea too. I usually buy premade frames, 16 x 20 with an 11 x 14 matte already cut. (Just for my own use.)
I have a devil of a time trying to hold my A3 paper with the 11 x 14 print and try to see through it to center it in the cutout of the matte.

In the meantime though, I'll bet that Terry can make a cutout frame for Qimage that will have crop marks, and perhaps then allow you to add a B+ border of 1/4 inch to the print.
Just thinking out loud!!
I am not a cut out maker.... so I cant make one, but I tried one of Terry's frames, and if there were crop marks added to the cutout frame, it should work fine.

Fred
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Terry-M
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2009, 02:23:21 PM »

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I'll bet that Terry can make a cutout frame for Qimage that will have crop marks
The problem with a cutout is that when applied to the image, it is stretched so the 5mm would be difficult to maintain. I think one would be required for each print aspect ratio and possibly different for each image resolution (different cameras and cropped images). It could get complicated.  Roll Eyes
I'm sure there are other ways of doing this without even having crop marks, but I don't fully know what steps are being used to mount the image on the foam board; I assume the 5mm is folded over the edge.
For example, what about a little template to mark the corners of the back of the print and mount the board on the print to the marks before folding, or fold & then mount?
As you can see, this process is unfamiliar to me Huh?
Terry.
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Seth
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2009, 01:46:00 AM »

You can't mark the back of the print without duplexing.  The printer re-loading the paper to the EXACT alignment as the reverse is nigh impossible.
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Seth
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2009, 01:51:54 AM »


I like that idea too. I usually buy premade frames, 16 x 20 with an 11 x 14 matte already cut. (Just for my own use.)
I have a devil of a time trying to hold my A3 paper with the 11 x 14 print and try to see through it to center it in the cutout of the matte.

Fred-
Most pre-cuts have an 10.75x13.75--or less opening anyway.   I cut true 11x14 holes, but I print to 11.5x14.5.  You might try larger too.

Why is it hard to line the image in the mat?  Just lay the mat over the print.  How are you holding them to the mat?  Regular old goo or hinging?
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Seth
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Terry-M
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« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2009, 07:15:45 AM »

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You can't mark the back of the print without duplexing.  The printer re-loading the paper to the EXACT alignment as the reverse is nigh impossible.
I was snot thinking of printing the marks on the back but marking with a fine draughtsman's pencil. By template, I meant a small "jig" that located on the corners of the print to guide your pencil.
Terry
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Ernst Dinkla
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2009, 07:54:32 AM »

Firstly - Fantastic software!

A little request, I asked about a while back but I haven't seen it yet.

I quite often mount my work onto foam core etc. When I print, I like the image to be 5mm larger than the final trimmed size on the foam core.

I can easily increase the image size by 5mm on each edge, but I don't have the crop marks 5mm inside the print
It would be awesome if Qimage had a bleed function that could do this, WITH crop marks inside the bleed area.

One option could be having an option to place the corner crop marks x mm or x inch INSIDE the print.

Thanks


If you start from 1 or 2 mm extra image area around and cut to that margin inside the laminated print it becomes far less a problem. Less image content lost, easier to keep parallel and no crop marks needed inside the image that  may be obscured by image content anyway or remain visible after the cutting. I have done many prints at 75x100 cm that had just that 1,5 mm extra and where cut after their lamination on aluminium sheets.

met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Dinkla

New: Dinkla Canvas Wrap Actions for Photoshop
http://www.pigment-print.com/dinklacanvaswraps/index.html
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Seth
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« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2009, 11:20:46 PM »

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You can't mark the back of the print without duplexing.  The printer re-loading the paper to the EXACT alignment as the reverse is nigh impossible.
I was snot thinking of printing the marks on the back but marking with a fine draughtsman's pencil. By template, I meant a small "jig" that located on the corners of the print to guide your pencil.

You still would never line it up exactly.  Inkjet loading is not that critical; not until you get into the multi-thousand $$$ graphics and drafting machines.

The only option I can see is after the print is made to place it face down on a huge light table and make marks.  But, why mark it then?  Just place the mount on top of the face down print an go.  All this is too cumbersome.

The moveable crop marks make sense.  The alternative, as I see it, is PS or a similar editor and put .1mm marks on the print in a layer.
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Seth
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« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2009, 01:32:53 PM »

I don't think marking on the print is the answer here.  I do this from time to time and here's how I do it.  I expand the print by maybe 4mm and print.  If the foam is thick and I want more wrap, I simply add an outside border beyond that extra 4mm and use "edges" to mark the outside of the print+border.  Then stick a flat head pin through the front of the paper at each of the four corners of the print (or print+border).  Push the pins all the way in so that the head of each pin is exactly at each corner.  Turn the print over and lay it face down on a table with the pins sticking straight up.  Then simply put your foam core on the back of the print, lining up the foam core in the exact center of the 4 pins.  You can even tie a black thread around one of the pins and then extend the string around the other pins to make a rectangle if you really want precise alignment.  Just center the foam inside the rectangle by eye (should be very easy) or if you are not good at sighting things, use a ruler and measure two of the sides.

Mike
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