This one is an older Digital Outback Photo article (that also talks about Qimage).

http://www.outbackphoto.com/workshop/NEF_conversion/nefconversion.html

I know, and the changing conditions I work in make it difficult to predict what the optimal RAW exposure is.  My other issue is low light and no flash under mixed lighting, it is always a struggle.

I am, but I am unsure if I could extract it for my use, as well as what post processing settings the camera applies.  I use the jpeg small format because it loads fast and has been post processed to my specifications by my in camera settings. I use them to create a high quality slide show for my clients in a very limited amount of time, like maybe within 15 minutes at most.  Do you think SE can do this?

No, I am a new SE user, but I would like very much to.  Do you have any hints for me on getting started in that direction?

Thanks Terry,

Eljae

Eljae-

First off, I think you are working too hard.  Nikon gave Capture with the D300's so I just KNEW there was an upgrade in the wings.  Sure enough Capture2.  Personally, I think NX and Lightroom are both cumbersome. I have both.  If you must use one, I'd pick it and uninstall the other.  (This Nikon Adobe, Nikon sRGB, etc. is BS)

I understand NEF+JPG in a PJ work flow.  Unembedding JPGs--regardless of software--is slower.  My workflow (when I am not handing off to an editor at an event) is downloading with Downloader Pro which embeds preset general IPTC into the file.  The JPGs are just for an edit to "Selects" or "Working" folder.  I do that in Breezebrowser--faster, autorotates, bigger screen image that you can page through.    (Breezebrowser will DL without DLPro. And, will batch add IPTC.)

RAW is raw.  So is the Histo.  There's about a 1/2 stop more on the high side--at least.  If you're in a tough contrast situation you should have D-lighting on, even if minimally.  If you're judging by the LCD on the back, turn off the Histo and look at the image (except for low light).  Turn ON the brightness warning.  You know, that thing that flashes blown out highlights in the preview.  Guess what? It's not accurate.  Usually  it flashes before you've hit blow out, so you're safe.

Low/mixed light.  Keep the box on CH and bang three.  Sandisk Extreme IV cards will keep you rolling.  Do a .7 bracket if you must and run the WB on Auto.  (I still--read that, "especially"--carry a digital light meter in my kit.)  If you have one stock light source (stadium) point at it and grab the WB.  For things like bands, plays, etc. go to Incan and let the stage colors work.  PS can bring them back

You, and others, can laugh but the BEST for 4x6 proof printing is the Epson PictureMate.  The originals (not the 200 series Epson scam) are going for $20-30 on EBay.  I bought five under $30.  Paper/ink for 100 is $27 but the ink really gives 130-150.  Two ink carts and 250 sheets are $53 in the store and about $38-43 on Ebay.  Heck, they are open display rated at 47 years and album at 100.  QI adds that touch of sharpen when I print them.

Since you have SE, you should get Mike's profiles for the Nikons.  They jut sit there and jump in based on the EXIF data.  I have D200, D300 and D3 installed.

BTW- If you are banging 10K frames it sounds like something that's a "quick-and-dirty."  Why NEFs (unless you're doing National G or SI)?  A 10MB or 12MB JPG Fine--with Compression set to Quality, not Size--is a helluva file these days. 

Hi
This isn't just a Nikon thing, I've noticed the same type of shift on my Canon 40D when I've been shooting black and white negatives. I don't think it will make a noticeable or significant difference - the raw file was about 1/3 stop lighter when I checked one of my  photos in Lightroom.

Brian

Brian,

Another one of our photographers here uses a 5D and 40D, both display the CR2 image in Lightroom as you described, which is similar to the Nikon as you said.  Something that I have noticed is that he uses AutoSync/Auto Tone as a first step batch process, and his images (and histogram) balances out nice more often than not.  Not all that they need, but it's his first step before his culling process.  My Nikons appear to respond better to manual adjustments.

Since you use Lightroom I thought I would ask, do you need to make individual adjustments on an image by image basis, or can you batch process your CR2 images in Lightroom?

Thank you for your post.

Hi ElJae

The simple answer is it depends on the images  . I work for a photographers and get all sorts of stuff thrown at me. Shots in controlled situations like studio shots and umbrella flash work can be corrected in batches, hand flash stuff needs more individual work. I've never found any 'auto' process that works.
For our weddings I go through them first quickly, usually in library, then export them as proofs. The photographers then edit these, and I crop and correct these further for the client proofs, then the final album selection is worked on in Lightroom and Photoshop.

Brian

ps I've tried to imagine Seth focussing backwards but failed 

This isn't only a Nikon thing, I've seen a similar kind of move on my Canon 60D when I've been shooting high contrast negatives. I don't figure it will have a perceptible or noteworthy effect - the crude document was around 1/2 stop lighter when I checked one of my photographs in Lightroom.
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