Part way down the page you first linked to, in blue type/underlined  - click on that - it opens to a specific pp page, http://www.ddisoftware.com/prism/ with a purchase menu item on the lhs, which opens elsewhere showing you how to buy. However, for heavily textured papers/canvas, it will depend on your scanner as to how good a profile you can get. Quite often, the paper supplier can make a profile for your inks and paper, and they generally do it foc, if you buy paper from them. This is generally worth doing, unless you need the speed and adjustments possible with profile prism.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi,

Just a thought - windows has its own print queue - you can open it from the little printer icon on the task bar. You may have a file or a number of files 'jammed' in there. Cancel all the jobs in that queue, and make sure that the printer you are printing to is the one you want, and it's on-line. fwiw, for the sort of images you are making, a high resolution is not required - you do not want the background image having higher detail than the models  . A relatively small jpeg will be fine. You will probably want to do various distortions (transforms) and fade colours to give the effect of distance as well as selective blurring to make it look right, and a smaller file will considerably speed up that process in photoshop.

Best wishes,

Ray

Some images here, in both views http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/gallery.html - Also a link at bottom of page to viewing hints. Plenty of others on web, too.

Hi Mike,

It did. Also, bear in mind, when I was doing this, there were not many large vdu's, nor anything above a4 printer that was at any sort of affordable price. Anaglyphs with the simple coloured glasses were the solution if size mattered. The point and shoots I used had huge 1Mp sensors    (Agfa's, iirc)  but 30 years prior to that I'd used 35mm slides and a home made viewer, and I had known a guy who gave me some sepia toned stereo glass slides he had made when a youngster, probably back in Victorian times.

Technology evolves slightly faster than the human eyeball, I guess. Making a viewer for parallel images is not difficult, a couple of mirrors and a cardboard box will do it simply enough, but maybe three images are better than one.

Best wishes,

Ray

Jeff,

I think you were right in what you say, Mike explains it well. Your club guys have probably got it all messed up with adobe applying its profiles, colour munki doing its, and most likely win7 screwing with it all as well.

Don't worry about it, as long as you get the results you want with your gear, leave them to do it the hard way.

Best wishes,

Ray

(currently with a cheap 6bit unprofiled monitor (other than by eye). You want to know something? My prints are as good or as bad as they ever were. If I were sending images for outside printing, then it may be different, of course.)

fwiw, you can take 3d images with a normal camera of static subjects. The easy way is tripod mounted, and move the tripod sideways for the second image. It depends on the subject but probably about an eight inch separation would be a good starting point. You can view the parallel images at large scale, by putting a sheet of card perpendicular to the screen/print to your nose. Your left eye then can only see the left image, your right the right image.

I used to make anaglyphs a few years back. I got sort of interested in enhancing the 3d effect by moving the camera distances further, and printing at different overlaps. I bought a couple of cheap p&s's, and made a bracket to take both, at adjustable positions, wired a push button switch into both cameras to fire them at the same time. It worked fine, but in the end the novelty wore off  . For anaglyphs you can either use colour filters over the lens, or apply the filter afterwards in post. A lens filter is probably simplest, since you can use the same filter in your viewing glasses. Making anaglyph prints would be fun, you'd need some transparency/image blending setting, else you would see the top print only, with a fringe of the bottom print.

I suppose these days you'd refresh the screen with the two images in synch with some lcd glasses. Apparently there are different methods shown on U-tube, for example.

Best wishes,

Ray

If A4 is big enough then maybe - http://www.printerland.co.uk/OKI-C711n-P109160.aspx
I've an older oki colour laser, (300dpi) they are not strictly lasers, since they use a row of LEDs. As it says 2400 dpi, then afaik, that is what you get, I don't think they can dither fixed LED's. If you are worried about colour profiling, the I used Profile prism to get mine set up. I would guess a distributor would let you run a few prints through a demo machine.

Best wishes,

Ray

From my limited knowledge on this, it seems that the higher resolutions are achieved by litho printing. Lower res is possible by inkjet, but they seem to use special quick drying uv sensitive inks. Printing fine lines on paper, you will get the ink bleeding into adjacent lines, this is not such a problem with printing normal photographs. I'm thinking you may get better results for smaller sizes by using a chemical photographic process (film), or possibly there are high resolution laser printers. Interesting that now they print the lenticular lenses too, using a type of varnish.

Maybe http://www.articlesbase.com/hardware-articles/dell-laser-printer-1700-high-resolution-laser-printer-1826118.html may be of interest

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Giovanni,

If you go to the hp site, http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/uk/en/ga/WF06a/18972-18972-3328061-3328079-3328079-3737540.html  The guaranteed minimum line width is 0.0558mm, or about 455 lines per inch. I do not think this is fine enough to meet your requirements.

Best wishes,

Ray

I'm too distraught to comment re. copyright, mind full of image s of Terry in handcuffs -pink fluffy ones- and a large woman lurking nearby with a whip

I slice up rolls of canvas using a bandsaw, and on occasions a normal wood-working table saw. Now, the edge is not smooth or even, and you need to take off the fluff, the edge of the canvas is trimmed after stretching anyway, so the uneven edge does not matter.

For paper, I think I would make a simple jig, an axle to hold the roll of paper, and another axle with a take up spool, placed about a yard apart. At the appropriate distance from the edge, fix something like a box cutter, and roll the paper through the blade onto the new spool, Then cut the original spool to length, and wind the paper back. If you wanted to try the bandsaw, then you would need a knife blade to cut paper without shredding it. By the time you've done that, plus the cost of the bits if you have to buy them, it would probably be as cheap to get a wider printer 

Best wishes,

Ray

'That is precisely how to protect yourself.Never upload more than a basic file for viewing and there isn't much anyone can do with it!'

Provided they don't have access to the resizing algorithms in Qimage

Not sure if this is any good, but I know someone from a few years back who used this or similar and recovered copyright fees from an errant  publisher - http://www.tineye.com/
There is also software which will encode a unique number into the image itself, and the number is apparently is recoverable even with extreme third party editing.  I've had demo versions before, maybe someone else can search it out. However, that is only of use once you've found a copy.

Talking of copyright, in another thread wrt printing to cd's, it was mentioned about folk putting up copies of the cd covers, and others downloading and printing their own covers from those images, if I read it correctly. That is most likely infringing copyright, too. It seems to be, if it is easy to do, we steal stuff, or if we are unlikely to be caught, we steal stuff - but we don't want our stuff stolen. Of course, another view is that we weren't going to buy it anyway, so it's cost the owner nothing for us to steal it, and lots of other excuses too. It's just human nature, I guess.

Best wishes,

Ray

less than a minute to remove watermarks, and add your own, if you wanted to, maybe a bit longer to tidy it up.

http://www.yertiz.com/pic0608/fred%27s%20dad.jpg

If you don't want stuff copied, don't show it anywhere on the web, or in any digital format, I guess.

Best wishes,

Ray

PS - I've removed the edited image - I didn't want to get into an argument about 'fair usage', etc, in demonstrating the ease of removing copyright information from a copyrighted image

If you had the time or incentive to do so, I reckon you may succeed in distorting the target image before physically printing it - (not an ideal method, but maybe print to pdf, instead of to your canon printer, then load the image into your image editor, make it circular with the hole in the middle, then print that image to your cd). You'll possibly get colour shifts and other problems in the distortion process. Once you scan in that image, distort it in reverse to get it back to the required rectangular image before running it through the rest of the pp software. Fancy writing a script or action   ?

There may be software 'out there' for doing the first transform because there was a sort of popular Victorian? gimmick using similar circular images, which only became understandable when you viewed them in the reflection of a circular mirror (glass bottle) stood in the centre of the image.

(If it were for an hp printer, I know of someone who would probably write the scripts in the blink of an eye   )

Best wishes,

Ray

edited typo to pdf