Hi Sue,

wrt ProPhoto an article by Mike may be of interest - http://ddisoftware.com/tech/articles/december-2006-hype-or-hero-take-2-16-bit-printers/ and others.

If your printer is not 16bit, then process in Photoshop in ProPhoto, to get smoother gradients, and to capture the nuances of the 12 or 14 bits of your raw image from camera, but for printing convert to Argb (or Srgb is often just as good) would be my recommendation and print from that in Qi. You need to be careful with converting from 16bit to 8 for colours out of gamut but you can check gamut warnings within Photoshop before, or after your conversion. It depends how much you push the image around. If you let the print driver and Qi print from ProPhoto, you may not get what you expect, since I do not believe either will show out of gamut warnings. Of course, it depends on the colour range and saturation that your image contains, most often it works OK, but then sometimes it screws up real bad, and you will wonder what has happened. Of course, you should save the raw file, since you may wish to process it in some other way, or find a better raw conversion processor at some future date, but I see little point in saving large 16bit tifs today.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Shaun,

Why not pretend it's another type of paper, e.g. one that doesn't fix the wide margins in the driver? It may be necessary to adjust some of the other driver settings or the icc profile, maybe you have a custom setting in the driver so that you can recall the fudged settings easily, if Qi does not delve that deeply into the printer driver. In the past, but for older Epson printers, I've taped a card guide to push the paper over from the edge of the printer, and told it to use A3 instead of A4, making sure that the image I'm printing is in the correct place and size for the pseudo A3 size.

Of course, without access to your printer, or any knowledge of why that paper is so special, it may not work for you, so don't blame me if you get the paper wrapped up in the mechanism .

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Fred,

Nothing specific, but canvas shrinkage depends on a number of factors. Humidity, age, coating, material e.g. cotton/polyester or both, final varnishing, handling in printer - feed, vacuum, roll weight, if you repackage the roll after printing, how tightly the manufacturer spooled it, etc. Not everything can be resolved by following someone else's formula, you have to test it out for yourself. In a humid environment, I would expect on first opening the canvas roll packaging, then the dampness would cause the outer layers to expand more than the inner, the outer layer tension will tend to relax, too. Also, the printer feed mechanism has to work harder dragging the canvas off the full roll, so the start of the roll would also be pre-stretched by the print mechanism, maybe. Polyester has less stretching problems, generally, but not such a defined texture as cotton. On the intermittant printing that I do, I never get the canvas print the exact size, but it doesn't bother me since I measure the final print, allow for my final stretching over the frame, and I make the frame to suit. If you want to work to the nearest 1/16th of an inch, then you most likely need to make a full size test print, and then adjust the final image size to suit. Nothing wrong with pre-cutting the roll, and feeding in single sheets.

Best wishes,

Ray

and
the mails are listed below your reply window - use normal? window scroll bars. Insert the quote code as required.

You you can type in the html code instead of using the icon insert -   I've uses different brackets but  you need the square ones - {quote} whatever {/quote} giving you

second row of icons in 'post reply' - penultimate in row, or same as html -cut and paste the text in between.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Roger,

I would suggest you study the following wrt colour management - http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/colour_space_choice.html

 In particular note that he says 'test it out for yourself'. There are many other informative articles on the Northlight site. Depending on the camera you have, it will produce a raw image of maybe 12 or 14 bits, so you will probably get better results (smoother colour graduations - most noticeable when editing skin or skies) working in photoshop in a 16 bit space, but be aware of the various 'gotchas' by so doing. After you have adited the image then 'convert' it to Adobe rgb, say - 'asign' will not embed the argb space afaik - for printing with qi (or srgb for web). You can use the gamut warnings that photoshop has, to see if any of the pro-photo colours you have selected will be outside the argb colour space, and edit and/or select your rendering intent accordingly.  You will need to experiment for yourself, until you get the feel for what you are doing. There are numerous links on the Northlight site to more detailed aspects including a link to a Luminous Landscapes pro-photo article. Editing in pro-photo and printing in qimage will get you the best possible results from your orignal image, but you may decide it is not worth the effort for your particular purposes. I guess the next best thing would be to stick with argb throughout for printing, srgb for web.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Kevin,

I'm glad you've got it working. I've no real idea as why it does not work t'other way round, except I know that windows 7 and Adobe try to do their own thing wrt colour management, and it can be tricky turning that off. In effect, you may be getting something similar to double profiling. I guess a good search around on the web may come up with some answers. Also Mike wrote an article a while back on w7/ colour management - on this site, iirc.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Kevin,

In my early version of pp, there is a profile editing screen. You can fine tune the profile in there. If you have that facility in your version, do the two images look different? If they look the same, but your actual print is not good, chances are you've the wrong settings in the driver when you make the print. If they look different, and it is a colour cast in the profile, it may be easiest to correct the profile in there. I've never bothered profiling the scanner, fwiw.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Kevin,

I'm not sure what the 'print screen of the printing attempt' actually shows. It could be it shows a bad screen profile. What actually does it print to the paper, too dark, too light, whatever? How do the two images compare in the profile editing window? Keep in mind that unless you have adjusted the screen white point to match the paper white, you will be unlikely to get the print to look like the screen image, and generally the print has a smaller gamut cf the screen.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Ryan,

Maybe do a search on the net for something like 'file sharing mac pc'. I know nothing about Macs, it may be complicated, but a search brings up stuff like http://www.techradar.com/news/software/operating-systems/guide-to-mac-os-x-file-sharing-934550 which may give you a clue.

Instead of navigating the qimage file tree,can you get to the folder by typing in the full path name in qi?

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Brad,

Your requirements are getting more complex by the minute  . That always produces a conflict with any automatic method. One thing to remember, as Brian almost mentioned, you can print an image on top of another one. In other words, make some white images with your desired cropped marks placed how you want, (or a single page sized white image with crop marks drawn in some other program) and save the image/page as a job if you need the same layout. Then simply drop your coloured images on top, and position as required. I expect with a bit of experimentation with templates, you can get the images centred on the crop marks exactly as you wish.

Best wishes,

Ray

How about -'Page formatting-mark edges of print-use border colour. Slect the width of border and whatever colour you want. works ok in qi studio.

Best wishes,

Ray

I thought you might like this  http://freepress.intel.com/community/news/blog/2011/11/09/astronomer-captures-enormous-true-color-photo-of-night-sky

Best wisghes,

Ray

Hi Roger,

Note my second small word, with a big impact in my previous post - 'IF'

Best Wishes
Ray

Hi Mike,

I've noticed that if I want to modify a post, there is often a significant delay in the window opening, and in saving the message. Not sure if it is at your end or mine - at one time I had a server error message (which I sent to you yesterday). I've only noticed it in the last few days, so having recently installed W7, it may be something to do with that, but it is not consistant - i.e. sometimes it works fine, sometimes it doesn't.

Best wishes,
Ray