Mike-

Since most new PC's now seem to have quad processors, and using that hardware has really speeded up thumb building, any chance you could use quad processing in other areas of QU? I'm thinking especially of converting files for the web, and any converting files in general. Those still take a long time.

Thanks,
Jeff Jessee

Maybe the misunderstanding is between "paper size" and "page size". They are the same thing. So either you need to make several copies of your layout to fill the paper size, or reduce the paper size to fit your template. The page is what shows on the main page in the preview image. If it's not filled with your template, then that's the problem, I think. Remember, a template tells Qimage how to print a PAGE.
Be patient, no program that does as much as Qimage can be easy to learn. Better to pay someone to teach you how to use it than go to another program. Or Fred and Terry will give you all the help they can, and all it will cost you is a little patience.

Jeff

I believe a "template" is page oriented. If you add photos that don't have an empty template space to fit on the current page, then the whole template is created on a new page, and then filled. So you need to fill your original template page with placeholders if you want the page to be filled before you go to the next page.

Jeff

"Backdrop Junction"-

Just looking at your handle, and I'm thinking maybe you are printing backgrounds for model train layouts. Is that the case? If that's what your panoramas are for, you might get by with even less that 2oo ppi. The ppi you need depends a lot on what distance you are viewing the print from. While I try to keep my portraits at 200 or better, in some cases where I had an old, small image to work from, with Qimage interpolation, I have been able to get a decent print from closer to 100 ppi. It won't allow as close an inspection, but from 5 feet away, it looks fine. So depending on your use...of course if 200 solves the memory problem, all it costs is speed.

Glad things are working out, the guys on here are always helpful,
Jeff

On a 4800, at least, borderless on roll paper only applies to the width of the paper. You get borderless on the length of the print by cutting it manually after you print???

Jeff

A little more information might enable someone to help. What model printer? What version printer driver? Often these small discrepencies are caused by the printer driver, and how it is set up. The fact that it's on a Mac could add other variables too. And any other problems besides the sliver of margin at the bottom? How wide is the unwanted margin? Could be just that you have "INFO" set for the print.  What is the size of the print shown on the main page above the preview? Often a screen capture of the main page can help someone diagnose your problem, which, 98% of the time, is that something is set wrong. Qimage has a LOT of adjustments, so that it can do a lot of things (ie, very large prints), but every one has to be set right. Once it's working, saving a job is the way I make sure I can reproduce previous successes!!
Don't give up yet. Fred or Terry can probably help.

Jeff Jessee

That's your best one yet, Fred!

Jeff (the other one)

Clone of a selected area would work for most problems, but don't know how hard that would be to program. Would need to blend at the edges, and the size of the clone tool would need to be adjustable. But it would be nice not to have to go to PhotoShop.

The other Jeff

I believe you'll find that laser printers are nowhere near the quality of even a cheap inkjet for color prints. I have had 5 or 6 Epsons, and I hated them all, but they make such beautiful color prints that I keep buying them.
Jeff Jessee

Fred or Terry, (or anyone)
Just got a new Win7 machine. The fast thumbs and raw is great, but am having a little trouble with moving data. I will just be moving about the last years worth of photos to the new machine, the others are backed  up on an accessable external drive. But I would like the logs and crops to match. Of course the trouble is, the pictures folder structure on win 7 is of course different (thanks, MS), so nothing can find anything. Is there a simple way to get this to work, without having to edit the files with a text editor?

Is maybe the easiest way to just create a folder structure on the new machine to match where "my pictures" are located on the old machine (XP), and ignore the new computers "my pictures folder"?

Thanks,
Jeff Jessee

Wow Mike, My own private programmer!

Can I assume this version makes automatic in the auto fill feature the "click twice on the rectangle to recover blown highlights" feature???

Thanks,
Jeff

If you define a square crop in the full page editor (not the filter screen) by just making the print square sized, and define another 3:4 crop of the same image in the FPE, with a version of the same image defined for that sized print, then any time you bring a square print of that image into the editor, it will apply the previously defined square crop. And any time you bring a 3:4 shaped version of the same image into the FPE, it will use that crop. At least it works that way for me, wiht 4x6, 5x7 and 8x10 crops of the same image. And the 8x10 crop would also be applied if I brought the print in as 16x20. So only one filter is needed. Crops from the full page editor are saved with the print sizes, (actually shapes), not the filters, which I think is just what you want.

Jeff Jessee

Where did you get a 500mb jpg? My Canon 5D Mark II only produces about 20 megs, even raw. So you must have created the file in another program. There is no need to feed Qimage a file that large, unless you are printing a highway billboard! Give us the details, and maybe we can suggest a better way. For instance, there's no need to increase the number of pixels in a file before printing it in Qimage, as Qimage can take the original file and do that as it prints, and do it better that the $700 graphics programs.

Jeff Jessee

There's even a Yahoo group called photo-3d that's been around for many years even before Yahoo, and has lots of "stereo" experts who will answer questions you have if you are getting started in 3D. Also, one for just the Fuji 3d cameras (fuji3d), and one for buying and selling 3d stuff (sell-3d), plus several other, more specialized ones.

3D is fun, and it impresses people. The hardest part is viewing and sharing 3D photos with everyone, but as 3D TV's become more popular and support 3D still formats, that will be the easiest way.

Jeff Jessee

Mike- I just measured the stardard antique Underwood and Underwood cards. The cards, are 7 inches wide, so the photos are a little less, about 6.5 inches wide. I have no problem converging them from about 2 feet away. Guess my head is a little bigger than most, but my eyes aren't 3.25 inches apart, so they are obviously diverging a little. If the pictures are 5 inches wide, it is true that I can view them with less eyestrain. I have seen a lot of other people at the 3D conventions freeviewing the cards, but most of them are old codgers too, so maybe that makes a difference. (Guess we like to look at stuff that's even older than we are.) But they still look a little better in a viewer, as they are magnified. As I'm sure you are aware, the old viewers have a prism effect in the lenses, to converge the images to make viewing easier for the average viewer.

The more modern viewers seem to be designed for viewing 4x6 prints (which they also converge for you), because that's the standard print size. The Loreo camera put the two images on a standard 4x6 shaped print, so that no special processing was required.

Jeff Jessee

Where your 3D will REALLY look good is on a 3DTV. Not all support .MPO files yet, but Panasonic does, just slip in your SD card, and see a glorious 55" 3D scene.