I had the same thought as I just finished reading http://ddisoftware.com/tech/computer-hardware/dell-u2410-calibration/?topicseen

But I get a real good monitor to print match with the HP's, do you think it could still be related to the monitor calibration and profile?

I don't know if you keep PS open while you are doing this or not so I'm not sure if this applies but I will run it by you.  I use Lightroom, and I get that message quite often when converting from NEF to another format.  I searched the Adobe forum and it was suggested to exit LR, then open it up again (I am not very technical but it referred to something about length of time that LR was open relative to eating up memory).  It worked.  But, I have to repeat this process each time it happens and it is fairly frequent.  It doesn't sound like it is related but then again maybe.

First, I want to thank you Fred and Terry for your help.  The screen shots helped a great deal Fred.  I made a couple of changes: I made sure I set the printer driver to no color management, Best Photo, and Premium paper Glossy.  I also changed Qimage to reflect the monitor profile from a Pantone Eye-One Display 2, and the Qimage paper setting to Epson Premium Paper Glossy.icc.  It made a significant difference, I have much better colors but the colors are still off on the skintones and the prints lighter but are still too dark.

To check the system, I loaded the same files onto a CF card, plugged it directly into the printers card slots, and printed on both an HP - Photosmart Compact Photo Printer Model: A646, and an HP - Photosmart Printer Model: D7560.  The prints were outstanding in all aspects from these printers, although very costly in ink...getting around 35 4x6 prints per $24 cartridge on the A646.

I am sure the R1800 can outdo these printers, but I am still missing something.

Ha, ha, ha.  I have no intention of learning Windows 7 until they pry XP from me with a crowbar.  Work...I know, I know, it gets in the way...critical need had me doing 14 hrs a day for the past 2 days, (critical need = buy food, pay bills and quarterly taxes).

But I finally made it into the studio.

I Use Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy (4 star), and Kodak Premium Photo Paper 8.5 mil Gloss/Brilliant.

Thank you Fred, and Terry.

I am at work and will be back this evening, and I will do that.

Thanks again, very much.

Sorry Terry,  file was too large for one post.
These are the Qimage settings.

Thank you for the reply Terry.

I ran a nozzle check as you suggested, and it appears the printer (an Epson R1800) is good.

I have attached a screenshot of my settings.

Hi all,

I just started my printing jobs using the SE version, but I am getting very poor results.

There is a shift from normal skintone to a purple cast tones and the whites are printing out grey.  Overall the print is also much darker than it should be.  The same files loaded onto a flashcard through Lightroom print ok at our local CVS Kiosk.


I was using the trial version previously, and it was without any issues, but I can't seem to figure out where I have gone wrong.  Any help is appreciated. 

Very nice, thanks Mike!

Sadly, it doesn't look like Verbatim is very open and transparent about their products, or the rep was just being uncooperative.  Anyway, I'm thinking about going with Taiyo Yuden 100%, they don't appear to be cutting corners, and are not really that much more $$$.

Here is a little about them: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taiyo_Yuden

Thank you very much Seth!

its the gamma setting that really confuses me because it is on a 0-100% scale.

Thanks for the response Brian.  The photographer stated that this process is just a baseline for him, but quite often he is lucky and it is all that is needed for a proof.  He too adjusts image by image in the final picks.

thanks Seth.

Brian,

Another one of our photographers here uses a 5D and 40D, both display the CR2 image in Lightroom as you described, which is similar to the Nikon as you said.  Something that I have noticed is that he uses AutoSync/Auto Tone as a first step batch process, and his images (and histogram) balances out nice more often than not.  Not all that they need, but it's his first step before his culling process.  My Nikons appear to respond better to manual adjustments.

Since you use Lightroom I thought I would ask, do you need to make individual adjustments on an image by image basis, or can you batch process your CR2 images in Lightroom?

Thank you for your post.