Thanks for the great response Terry!  That did it - so simple when you know how - I've never been there and don't know how it happened, but I won't forget that option.

Glenn

The other attachment:

Help would be appreciated with a problem that I’ve very recently encountered (never come across it before in all the years that I’ve been using Q and QU) with the list of available print sizes and the available crop sizes in the Crop Wizard.  My current printer is an Epson Stylus Photo P50 (an A4 size printer), which I normally use for 4x6, 5x7 and 8x10 inch prints and use the Crop Wizard accordingly.

Suddenly I find that the list of available print sizes has increased to include sizes that would be appropriate for an A3 printer and when I for instance add an image at size 4x6 to the queue then try to use the Crop Wizard, I’m presented with a crop size list starting at 8x10 and going up to 24x36, with no lower size options.  The media size options are set for 4x6 as are the print sizes (borderless).

I’ve tried resetting the Printer Settings and resetting ALL Program Settings to no avail; also reinstalled the printer driver with no success and don’t want to go delving into any murky waters without knowing what I’m doing!  I hope that the two attachments might help you to see what I’m talking about. Thanks,

Glenn

17years ago, but still makes us (including grandson) smile !

I second that - couldn't say it better.

Glenn

Thanks for the great support Mike - very much appreciated.

Glenn

Aye lad (like Black Sheep ale), and that was only the first shot of many much better than that!

Glenn

Hello Fred,
Yes, the DMC-LF1 comes with a fixed Leica Summicron 1:2.0 - 5.9/6.0-42.8 lens and performs pretty well given its very small size.  It does suffer from CA in high contrast (twigs against sky) as well as barrel distortion at wide apertures, as you might expect and the Panasonic software does a good job in correcting this in JPGs.  However that rather negates the advantages of shooting RAW and the camera-produced JPGs can't compete with the dynamic range produced by developing in QU. I'm still fiddling about trying to get the best QU parameters for RAW development sharpening, but I'm getting there.

I bought the camera for fly-fishing and hiking expeditions, where a standard SLR was just too bulky and got in the way of the serious business - the LF1 fits nicely in my jacket pocket, weighs next-to-nothing and it also takes great HD videos.  It's a compromise of course, but I'm quite happy with the results; I'm wondering whether it's worth asking Mike to produce a lens profile for this camera - if so how do I go about it?

Many thanks for your rapid replies and interest and also very much to Terry for the tips on PTLens.

Glenn

Thanks Fred and Terry for your replies.  Fred, I have sent you an original RW2 file plus the converted TIF and JPG files, by WETRANSFER.  As you will see the full EXIF information (camera, model and lens) is only missing from the TIF file - everything is intact in the JPG file.  As I said in my original post and as Terry has confirmed, the problem did not occur in earlier versions of QU.  I hope you or Mike can help.

Regards,

Glenn

I would appreciate help with a problem I have encountered when Converting (and Save Filtered Image) any RW2 images from my Panasonic DMC-LF1 pocket camera to TIF - currently using QU 2018.107, in that the resulting TIF loses the camera make, model and lens details in the EXIF information.  The problem does not occur when converting the same images to JPGs. This causes problems when I need to open the file for barrel distortion correction in PTLens (as there is currently no lens profile available in QU).  Although I seldom need to do this, I know that the problem did not occur in earlier versions (I checked some TIFs converted in 2016.124, which were fine).

Have I missed a setting somewhere or is this a bug?

Many thanks,

Glenn

Hi Jeff,

It sounds as if there is a File System error - if you haven't tried it already, I suggest you run CHKDSK /r J: from the command prompt (if J is the volume name - if not substitute the correct letter).   If you're not familiar with this procedure, this link will help : https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/guide-to-using-check-disk-in-windows-vista/   It covers Windows 7, 8 and 10.

Good luck,

Glenn

Thank you very much Fred - I had forgotten about using Ctrl and had been relying on the numbers in the FPE print Location and Soft Proof, which looked perfect - my mistake and a lesson learned!

Regards,

Glenn

Hi Fred,

Very wet day here yesterday so was feeling very fartsy and having watched your video decided to see what I could do on the FPE, which I admit I haven't used very much for some time.  This is my effort after a short time using one of my old rose photos, just for fun!  Taught me a lot about the FPE and how to use it properly as well as rotating and freehand positioning.

I got a little bit artsy having finished and decided it needed a bit more, so used a cute cheapo little program I have called PhotoScissors, which (amongst other things) allow you to cut items from an image, colorize quickly (the centre rose was deep crimson) without the faff of using merge layers etc. and then paste over another image as a background.

I did have one little problem - having lined up everything (freehand) in the FPE with image positions spot on (and checked with softproof), when I printed to file and viewed the result, there was a narrow vertical margin between the right and left hand side images, needing a couple of arrow ticks to correct on the PTF image.  Am I doing something wrong; is it my monitor, or what (Dell P2214 1980 x 1080) ?

Regards,

Glenn

Thanks for the advice Mike - I'll keep practicing!

Regards,
Glenn

It's a great tool and certainly saves going outside to the image editor in a lot of cases.  However I've noticed the same problem as is evident in some of the images which you and Terry have worked on, particularly where the background is sharp.  The "cloned" area is always softer (and as Mike's video states, gets softer the more vanishes are performed).

Would it be possible to sharpen up the vanishing tool, or even have "hardness" options as in cloning tools?

Regards,

Glenn