This is where I get confused.  I can access the driver thru the Epson controls, and have something completely different than if I access it thru the Qimage controls.  If I set the two like I showed in my last screen shot (which I tried yesterday and got good results) it seems to work.  If I set them both to look like the Qimage screen shot (on the right) then I get horrible results.

If I set them both to be what I have in my Qimage screen shot, isn’t that what is known as “double profiling”?  A term I have always had trouble with.

For what it’s worth, I only make a few prints this time of year for customers.  Very small amounts compared to what I used to print.  It’s to the point to where it costs me more to do this than I make from it.  The printer sits idle for the rest of the year, so I’m interested in making what I have work.

I normally have the drivers both set like the Qimage driver in the screen shot, but this morning changed it to what you see in the screen shot and seemed to get a little better result.

I played with the “Channel Mixer” in Photoshop.

A nozzle check is the first thing I do before printing.  I will say that there is always a space in the magenta nozzle check.  It is always in the same place.  It’s a small space.  Can not get rid of that, so I ignore it.   Been doing that for a long time.  At least for the last couple of years or more.

For quite some time, I have had trouble matching prints to the monitor.  I built a new computer and moved from XP to Win 7 and hoped the issue would be solved, (not the reason I built the computer) but it is not.  I am running Win 7 and printing with Qimage PE v2010.208.  I rarely print anymore, so I’m a little behind with software, but it used to work, and it should still work.  My prints came out with a magenta tint to them, now they seem to be coming out with a green or blue tint to them.  It’s hard to tell.  Monitor is a LaCie 324 and is calibrated with the i1 Display Pro.  I never used to have problems, but for years I’ve been battling with the problem, and just can’t seem to resolve it.  I used to be able to get it close by playing with the color channels before printing, but I can’t do that anymore.

I am printing with an Epson 2200 using the Epson Premium Semi Gloss paper and the profile that Epson has on their site.  What could be causing this color problem?

It is Win 7 Home edition 64-bit OS.

However, I figured out the problem.  She had the printer profile turned off in Qimage.  She doesn't use or understand the program very well.  It keeps the paper size now.  It was late last night, and I just missed that.  Dunce cap on.

While trying to select 4x6 paper, both in printer and in Qimage, I get the following error.

Function address Oxead71a45 caused a protection fault.  (exception code 0xc0000005)  Some or all property page(s) may not be displayed.

Clicking ok brings up the same error message.  Clicking it again and it goes away.  However, the paper size always goes back to letter size, no matter how many times I try.  This is on a friends computer, not mine.   Running Qimage Professional v2010.210 on a Win 7 computer.

I didn’t see that other thread.  It looks like you are getting a handle on it.  This stuff came to me easy, but Qimage has been another animal.  When I got my printer profile made a couple of months ago, I found out stuff about Qimage that blew me away, and it was technical and intense, and I’ve forgotten every single bit of it.  I was worried I’d never get everything set back the way I had it in Qimage before I had to mess with settings I didn’t know existed.

I’ve been using Qimage since June 2004, but you won’t see me lending much help on it.  I just don’t consider my knowledge of Qimage good enough to do anything but get it to do what I need it to do.   

People sometimes lend some scale and a point of interest in a landscape photo.  I do stuff like this whenever I can.


This is an old photo.  I'd process it differently today.

You need to put the img tag around your URL


It should look like this.  [img ]htt p://lh3.ggpht.com/_YEvENLGy2uo/Snmk1dZ4RDI/AAAAAAAAAEc/nBGtz65gHUM/_MG_7602.jpg[ /img] (I've inserted spaces to show you what it would look like.


You are making a mountain out of a mole hill.  Pbase is easy peasy.  Give it a few days to get used to how it works out.  Since you automatically have some storage space with your ISP, a program like Jalbum http://jalbum.net/ might work for you.  There is a very small learning curve to Pbase and Jalbum, but once you figure it out, you will wonder what the problem was.

Thanks.  I might do some research on blotter paper, but it sounds like it might have a one time use?   It does sound like I’ll continue to wait the 24 hours before delivery.

Thanks for that info.  Had to Google RC paper to find out that it means Resin Coated Paper.  I’ll continue to let the prints cure for 24 hours.  Must be why I can use a rubber ink stamp on the front of the paper, but not on the back of the paper where I want to use it.

I remember reading about drying with blotter paper when I first got my 2200 back in 2004, but have never used it.  The only prints I have from when I first bought the 2200 have been in a portfolio book all this time, and they still look good.

A question on the blotter paper.  If I started using blotter paper, could I stack the prints with blotter paper in between them after they come off the printer?   My counter space is pathetic.

All canned air I’ve ever used has a propellent that squirts out when the can isn’t held level.  Not good for sensors.  What kind of canned air does not use this propellent?

A Rocket Blower is my only method of cleaning a sensor.  I’ve only wet cleaned once over the last 6 years, and some 8 different bodies.  I’ve never seen the Rocket Blower add dust.

Canned air around my camera and lenses makes me cringe.  On the outside of the body and lens if it is really dirty, ok, but never lens elements.  That’s where a Rocket Blower, soft camels hair brush and or a soft micro fiber cloth for stubborn areas come in handy.  The Rocket Blower works for sensor dust too.

If I do use canned air on a sensitive part, and I have done it, tho it makes me cringe, I place the can on a flat surface, and move the object I’m cleaning around.  That way, the chances of squirting some of the propellent in the can are greatly reduced.

My camera is always off when changing lenses.  I currently have 5 bodies, and using 3 at the same time at some events is the most efficient way to cover the event.

I do understand what the diagrams are supposed to show, it’s that neither of us can see it.  That’s why I said the only difference I can see is that the arrow is gone from the “B” in the second diagram.  Any other difference is too subtle for either of us to see it.

To be honest, I have stared at those two diagrams a lot, both last night, and again this morning, and the only difference I can see is that the “B” does not have an arrow next to it in the second image.  What am I missing?