Gary,
That is a great question.
I can only relate some experiences, but I'm sure there are others with chemical knowledge of the coating/ink interaction.
That would likely be better than my post.
Nevertheless, I found out about curing time and color curing and the final setting of the colors when I was really hot into Profiling my own printer/papers, and trying out many less expensive store brands like Office Depot paper etc.
I had to print the target for the initial scan for PROFILE PRISM, the software that makes the best home brew profiles.
(I am not going to touch the expensive colorimeter type of hardware that you can buy (well over a thou) as that is not in my budget)
I am usually like a kid, well, I am a kid, and always will be.... and I can't wait.  You know, "are we there yet? are we there yet" type.
So I print the target using the paper, and wait a reasonable amount of time (like 3 minutes, blow on it, and scan.
After making the profile, next day, I printed a second print of the target, and that was left overnight. I could actually see the reds were totally different from the 3 minute print, although they looked alike now after 24 hours.
I made a second profile using the cured print and it was far better, and it matched.
I experimented some more with other papers, and not all papers changed color over night.
Epson Prem glossy did not, and Ilford Gallerie Smooth gloss did not either.

Bottom line, in my way of thinking, when I need to be serious about quality, I would wait the overnight cure time to be sure.

One last comment. I think it was one of our own posters on the forum here, Jack Winberg that told me to use a hair dryer (gentle heat applied to the emulsion) to speed the "curing" time. If memory serves me, I think we had good luck doing that.

Maybe Jack will chime in if he reads this.

Best
Fred

That's a spectrophotometer; man they have come down... Couldn't touch one 5 years ago for less than 1200.
That was a great deal.
Fred

I just read some profiling instructions the other day that said 30 minutes.  I'd wait longer.  Most say overnight.

That said, your question is about delivery.  I normally wait 24 hours because I do not want them sticking it in a frame before it can dry and gas out.  I wait 8-10 hours before even taping it inside a mat so the paper has time to stabilize and flatten from being wet.

Just my work flow.

Have to wonder what replies 2, 3, and 4 have to do with this thread???    

Thanks for that info.  Had to Google RC paper to find out that it means Resin Coated Paper.  I’ll continue to let the prints cure for 24 hours.  Must be why I can use a rubber ink stamp on the front of the paper, but not on the back of the paper where I want to use it.

I remember reading about drying with blotter paper when I first got my 2200 back in 2004, but have never used it.  The only prints I have from when I first bought the 2200 have been in a portfolio book all this time, and they still look good.

A question on the blotter paper.  If I started using blotter paper, could I stack the prints with blotter paper in between them after they come off the printer?   My counter space is pathetic.

Thanks.  I might do some research on blotter paper, but it sounds like it might have a one time use?   It does sound like I’ll continue to wait the 24 hours before delivery.