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Author Topic: Starting Point for Raw Settings  (Read 14402 times)
Matt H
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« on: July 14, 2015, 06:08:45 PM »

Hello,

I have Canon EOS 7D and I am looking for some suggestions on setting the default DFS and NR in the Raw settings dialog. I have been using Qimage since its inception and have been shooting RAW for several years, however just recently I started exploring all of the RAW features again and have concluded that my RAW settings might not be ideal.     

For years my old standby for DFS has been 2/200/~75%  but looking at some recent photos and some some of the posts on here I am thinking that is probably a bit soft. 

So I have a few questions:

1) Does anyone have recommendations for the default DFS and NR settings in the RAW dialog?
2) Is there a good procedure for optimizing those settings?

While I realize that the "right amount" of DFS and NR is subjective and a very personal opinion I am still looking for a starting point as I don't want to waste my time going in the wrong direction.
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Fred A
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« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2015, 06:30:58 PM »

Quote
1) Does anyone have recommendations for the default DFS and NR settings in the RAW dialog?
2) Is there a good procedure for optimizing those settings?

While I realize that the "right amount" of DFS and NR is subjective and a very personal opinion I am still looking for a starting point as I don't want to waste my time going in the wrong direction.

Hi Matt,
Yes it is subjective, not only to the eye of the beholder but to the lens used on that day.

Qimage has the ability to keep specific settings for specific cameras.
It is saved in a qsn file when you so order it.
When you select an image, Qimage reads the type and what camera, and automatically selects the correct qsn file you made for that camera.
If you prefer one setting for all, uncheck the box shown in the screen snap that says, Use Camera Specific settings.

You can see by my screen snaps, that I have qsn files saved for a number of cameras. 
Most do not vary much, but one needed a larger chunk of Noise reduction plus a heavier sharpen to compensate.

Personally, I take the approach that raw images are inherently soft. A small boost of DFS puts them into an acceptable condition.
I will add DFS in the editor if needed.
Frankly, in my opinion, an over sharpened image is a spoiled image.

Fred
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Matt H
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« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2015, 03:18:50 AM »

Fred,
Thanks for the reply.   I understand the ability to save different settings for different cameras, that is a nice feature for those with multiple camera bodies.

Regarding your settings, your not far from what I have always used.  What I am curious about is there seems to be a large number of people using  Lightroom USM settings with a .5-.9 radius and 300-500% or even a radius as large as 5.  Your thoughts on this?

I'm also looking for guidance on the NR settings. How do those correlate to the NR settings in the filter screen?   
Even at ISO of 400 or below I find if I have a picture with a large dark area I end up using the high chroma NR to cleanup the noise (at the cost of sharpness).   That approach usually leaves a nice clean image,  Any less NR and there are usually a fair number of artifacts add if I shot the picture at a high ISO. Your thoughts?
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Fred A
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« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2015, 09:32:20 AM »

Quote
Regarding your settings, your not far from what I have always used.  What I am curious about is there seems to be a large number of people using  Lightroom USM settings with a .5-.9 radius and 300-500% or even a radius as large as 5.  Your thoughts on this?

I'm also looking for guidance on the NR settings. How do those correlate to the NR settings in the filter screen?   
Even at ISO of 400 or below I find if I have a picture with a large dark area I end up using the high chroma NR to cleanup the noise (at the cost of sharpness).   That approach usually leaves a nice clean image,  Any less NR and there are usually a fair number of artifacts add if I shot the picture at a high ISO. Your thoughts?

Matt,
This is almost impossible to make assumptions on sharpening without seeing the images and what "THE IMAGE NEEDS"
Since Mike invented DFS, Deep Focus Sharpening, USM is an antique.
Please watch this video. I think you will stop listening to USM stories.  https://www.youtube.com/embed/AiVoXcB1uzk

Next I have to mention that built into DFS is TTS, Tone Targeted Sharpening.  https://www.youtube.com/embed/xn7Ipw8IAhQ

Matt, with DFS and a little practice, you will  never use USM again.

Noise reduction.
Qimage Ultimate has a pro-active NR.
That means, by setting the NR slider in raw options to default, and having a check mark in the box for banding and Chroma, depending on the relative ISO, Qimage will auto apply NR for sensor noise, and apply Chroma NR for the chroma noise.
That slider determines the threshold when these NR filters kick in and how strong.
The NR and Chroma filters in the editor top off the applied filter strengths with additional strength.

Hope some of this helps.

Fred




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Terry-M
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« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2015, 11:09:24 AM »

Quote
Qimage Ultimate has a pro-active NR
For what it's worth, see my settings for a Canon 600D attached.
I arrived at these settings after experimentation with several images taken at different ISO's, lighting conditions and subjects.
I have NR set fairly high but I've not seen any problem with this throughout the ISO range, ie. no obvious NR on the low ISO images and high ISO images (1600-3200) the NR is good without excessive softening.
The QU NR "smart" algorithm works very well for me.  Cool
Terry
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Matt H
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« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2015, 01:27:51 PM »

Fred & Terry,

Thanks for the replies.  I did not realize the NR was essentially auto adjusting...  Good to know.   I am also quite familiar with DFS and have been using it since it was introduced a few years ago.   Just have not had time to really play with it and determine the ideal settings over what I historically used with USM.

It appears that the settings I have been using over the years are pretty consistent with what you guys are using and maybe I don't need to do anything more.   I will try and post a few samples tonight when I am home and get your opinions.... 

However I am always trying to make things "better" so I am wondering if the following procedure make sense to determine a good base DFS & NR setting for Raw conversion?
1) Turn off DFS and NR in the Raw conversion
2) In the filter screen "Play" with a variety of DFS and NR settings on a variety different photos to find a good starting point.
3) Apply those DFS & NR parameters to the Raw Conversion settings dialog.
4) Go back to same photos used in step 2 and remove DFS & NR that was applied in the filter, and then adjust as necessary.

If this procedure makes sense then my only questions  is how to correlate my NR settings in the filter dialog to the slider in RAW conversion settings?

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Terry-M
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« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2015, 06:38:57 PM »

Hi Matt
Quote
In the filter screen "Play" with a variety of DFS and NR settings on a variety different photos to find a good starting point
I don't think you'll get very far with NR settings because the raw setting and the filter NR settings are quite different and it's not possible to relate one to the other.
You may get somewhere with DFS; I did try that myself today out of interest but found it a little tricky.
I think what Fred said is right: "I take the approach that raw images are inherently soft. A small boost of DFS puts them into an acceptable condition. I will add DFS in the editor if needed."

If you do change the raw settings as you suggest and exit, make sure you say "No" to re-building all the raw cache. All you need do is select and right click on the appropriate thumb and select "rebuild selected thumb(s)".
Terry
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Fred A
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« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2015, 08:58:28 PM »

Quote
I don't think you'll get very far with NR settings because the raw setting and the filter NR settings are quite different and it's not possible to relate one to the other.
You may get somewhere with DFS; I did try that myself today out of interest but found it a little tricky.
I think what Fred said is right: "I take the approach that raw images are inherently soft. A small boost of DFS puts them into an acceptable condition. I will add DFS in the editor if needed."
Matt
I had to be out today taking pictures.
I sent you the pictures of the cat with chroma disease, and I also copied Terry on it too so he would be up to speed.
I think we have reached the end of the curve as far as I can tell.
It's sort of like, How much salt do you use in the supper.
Sort of depends on  what you are cooking for supper, doesn't it?
Same goes for DFS and the numbers; depends on the image.

Hope you got something from the pictures I sent, plus the videos to show you that USM is history.
With Terry's help to shrink the file size, here are the examples I sent you.

089 shows the cat with chroma noise
090 shows same thing with comparative size
091 shows how the image was cleaned up by Qimage Ultimate's AUTO Noise reduction chroma filter, applied to the image as needed automatically.
092 shows the same image with all the Chroma noise reduction I could apply over the top of the auto applied.

Qimage is "The Bee's Knees"


Best,
Fred
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Matt H
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« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2015, 03:17:20 AM »

Terry & Fred,

Thanks for all of the feedback.   
I did a little playing and have concluded that I am going to leave my Raw Options set at 2/200% with the slider around 75% like I have done for the past few years.  That seems to give my photos a little extra "pop"  without making them look overprocessed.
I also played with the NR settings and for now I have settled on using the settings Terry provided above.  That seemed to resolve the noise issues I was seeing in dark areas of most of my photos.  On one photo where the noise was still present I used the "Shadow NR" and that cleaned it up nicely without making the photo too soft.

Now after looking closer at many of my recent photos I need to be more aware of my camera settings.  Due to my aperature I had a fairly shallow DOF and found that there was always a nice "Sharp" area in the photo, unfortunately that area was not my subject on many of those photos  Huh?   Not much that Qimage can do about the idiot behind the lens Roll Eyes

Mike if your listening,  it might be helpful on the Raw Image Options dialog if there were a numeric value displayed for the slider on the Sharpness Equalizer,  just like there is on the image/filter editor screen.  In my way of thinking it would help to correlate the DFS settings found on the Raw Image Options Dialog with the DFS settings in the Filter/Editor dialog.


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Jeff
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« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2015, 11:29:34 AM »

A lot of interesting comments and suggestions.

I have always had difficulty deciding if to put a default sharpening in the Raw Preferences.

A lot my images include sky, blue, cloudy bright to just plain dull.  In the editor I mostly select 'all except the sky'  if I have a default set in Raw I have already applied some sharpening to the sky.  Am I contradicting my self or rather the image.
With my Pentax I had no default sharpening, with the Oly  I have 2@150.  I can tell the difference.  The Oly needs less sharpening in the editor stage, but I have probably had more noise in blue skys

Question regarding the default noise reduction setting in Raw Options.
What do the figures  "NR range G:400-3600,  C:3600" mean.  ISO ?

Jeff





 
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Fred A
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« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2015, 05:55:59 PM »

Quote
A lot my images include sky, blue, cloudy bright to just plain dull.  In the editor I mostly select 'all except the sky'  if I have a default set in Raw I have already applied some sharpening to the sky.  Am I contradicting my self or rather the image.
With my Pentax I had no default sharpening, with the Oly  I have 2@150.  I can tell the difference.  The Oly needs less sharpening in the editor stage, but I have probably had more noise in blue skys

Question regarding the default noise reduction setting in Raw Options.
What do the figures  "NR range G:400-3600,  C:3600" mean.  ISO ?

Jeff

Jeff, good morning
The part that no one seems to absorb is that the raw option settings are a basic very minimal sharpening to get your image out of the soft raw womb so to speak.
It's like I said about adding how much salt to your supper.... you can always add more, but if you have the pre-salting too strong, you cant get the salt back out.

So do not over do and do not fiddle with every batch of shots.

Noise reduction in AUTO mode:
This is controlled by the ISO needed to process the image 
The setting of the NR slider is the threshold. At normal setting it tells you that NR will come on in stages starting at ISO 400.
That is not necessarily the camera ISO 400. That is what Qimage Ultimate needed as a virtual ISO to properly expose your  image.
Please see screen snap
It is the bottom of the REFINE screen.
It is saying that the shot was taken with camera ISO at 100.
In order to properly expose it, Qimage adjusted the exposure to a level that would have needed no exposure adjustment had the camera been set to ISO 980.
Since the threshold for NR is set to 400, above that it begins to apply some.
Look, further at the screen snap and you can see 2/10 applied or 20% NR applied.
It also says that the Chroma filter will begin to apply at 3600. Since we are only at ISO 980, No Chroma filtering is turned on.

The slider in the Raw options for Noise reduction threshold, is now more understandable.
If your camera has a ton of pixels placed on a smallish sensor, it will produce more noise than your old camera with less pixels and the same size sensor.

See Terry's post #4. He set his threshold to allow Qimage to apply some Noise reduction earlier. (Earlier means at a lower ISO than 400)

Another point, to aid in cleaner images, the Smart color in Refine.
I'll ask Terry to address this one.


Hope I helped a little

Fred
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Terry-M
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« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2015, 07:19:29 PM »

Hi Jeff,
Quote
"NR range G:400-3600,  C:3600" mean.  ISO ?
I don't think Fred answered this directly - Yes!
Re.
Quote
Another point, to aid in cleaner images, the Smart color in Refine.
Blue skies can be noisy the reason being I believe is that sensors have far fewer blue sites than red or green.
I find that if there is a problem with a blue sky (we do get them sometimes!), I will turn off smart colour in the refine screen. The same applies if other colours are too "strong" with SC on.
Terry
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Terry-M
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2015, 06:41:11 AM »

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I will turn off smart colour in the refine screen
I should have added that you can turn smart colour on or off in the Raw Preferences as well as in the refine screen. So, if it's off in Preferences you can turn it on in Refine and visa versa.
I have it on in Preferences but turn it off in the refine screen when I need to.

Also, you can use Smart Colour in the image editor with the Select Colour tab, see attached screen shot. Click the multi coloured button for an auto application and/or the individual channels for manual adjustments up or down. Using auto will add to any raw SC without "blowing" anything.

Terry
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Jeff
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« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2015, 10:55:22 AM »



Jeff[/quote]

Jeff, good morning

The slider in the Raw options for Noise reduction threshold, is now more understandable.
If your camera has a ton of pixels placed on a smallish sensor, it will produce more noise than your old camera with less pixels and the same size sensor.


Fred
[/quote]

Many thanks to you both, after that little discourse I am sure I have a better understanding of the noise figures.

Now back to putting the knowledge into practice in Ultimate.

Ultimate good, but I do find it an advantage to understand just what it is doing and how.

Jeff





 

Jeff
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Fred A
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2015, 11:04:27 AM »

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Ultimate good, but I do find it an advantage to understand just what it is doing and how.

If you apply this discourse to a woman, and you get an answer, please post it here.
Fred
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