Ok I sent four additional raw files via Wetransfer, 2 are from the set of files shot along with the original problem file I sent. They also have similar problems but not as severe. Then one from one year ago that does not have any problems. The last one is a test done today and includes a mini greytagmackbeth color checker. Hope this can be of some assistance. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the help Fred. Will do some more testing on the ISO 100 vs 200, 400 etc settings to optimize my files.

Andy,
I am honored that I am mistaken for such a handsome and astute fellow as Terry, but you really have been working with Terry so I best let him continue. He has the Canon software, and I do not.
Terry will be busy for a few hours, but will return and reply later today.

What I can do to help is to explain how to use the Comparator in Qimage Ultimate so you can get the same zoom on both images, side by side.

1) Place both images into the queue (to the right side as if you were going to print)
2) Click the tab located below the large preview images, adjacent to the JOB PROPERTIES tab called Print Queue!
3) Using the CTRL key and the mouse, select both file names in the queue
4) Right click on the file names and select the last selection called Comparator.
5) When the screen opens, wait for both images to load. Then Right mouse button and click LOCK

Now If you drag or slide an image on the right, the left will move to the same location.
Roll the mouse wheel and both sides will change magnification at the same rate.

When you have what you want to show, Screen Snap it.

(Sometimes, it's a good idea to click SWAP in that Right click menu. LCD type monitors have been known to have varying brightness and contrast when comparing areas of the screen.)
Fred

Hi Andy,
I think your images are too small to make any reliable conclusions; you could say there's a halo against the black tail of the bird on the DPP image!
It seems to me that DPP's default gives inherently higher contrast, sharpening and probably noise reduction compared to QU. You can of course change QU raw preferences to increase sharpening and noise reduction. Contrast can be increased by reducing Fill in the refine screen.
DPP does a good job, just like the in-camera conversion but I find it very difficult to use to fine tune some some aspects and highlight recovery is not that good either. Still more practice in using any raw software will help the user to get their optimal results
Below is comparative versions of a semi macro shot which to me shows QU superiority     They are linked to may photo gallery.
The first shows QU version straight from raw refine with the DPP version on the RIGHT.
DPP has a little more contrast but has less detail on many of the yellow stamens at the bottom of the image.

The second comparison is the same except images had a little Tone Targeted Sharpening applied to the "saturated" colours. This has really brought out more detail in the stamens and else where on the QU image but not added anything to the DPP image. All very subtle I know!

Terry

Hi Andy,
Yes, it's important to get that right and the default is a good starting point.
It's a matter of trial and error I think. I have a new camera and still trying different settings; I'm more-or less there now but they are not a lot different from the default settings. I've left the Noise reduction as default; if my memory is right, that mid position represents 400 iso above which noise reduction comes into play.
I have increased the sharpness equalisation to something higher than default and may try it a little higher. Also the USM % is up to 175%.
One new feature that is very useful for testing different raw settings and profiles is the ability to re-build the thumb and cache for a single a single thumb - right click menu. This can save a lot of time when fine tuning.
One other point, I prefer to have the raw sharpening to be "not enough" rather than "too much". That gives me scope to use the TTS feature in the editor when required.
I hope that helps.
Terry

I don't see what you see. The noise reduction applies, and I can see the difference magnifier on or off.
Of course, y0ou have to rebuild the thumb if you change the Noise Reduction slider and Save it
I think what you might be referring to is the magnifier in the Editor.

That one will not show Noise reduction of sharpening at lower magnification selections>

Fred

Hi Dennis,
Going back a few posts I have one of those (now XRite) and use it regularly to get a good white balance on raw shots.
I never use the Auto WB setting but prefer to use the nearest pre-set such as "daylight" or "cloudy". I will usually take one or two shots of the colour checker, especially if cloud cover changes during a session, and use those to WB the other shots from the session. Of course, if you change the camera pre-set, a new colour checker shot is required.
Terry