Yet another enhancement, Thanks.

Very good video, 

Jeff

Having a bit of trouble managing this feature.

Will have some lunch and have another go later.

Fred, that video interesting, I could use that to delete all the image and leave clear blue sky, often that would be a more interesting image  

Jeff

Practice and patience is all you need. Also watch Mike's video more than once and take note of his technique and comments.
See attached screen shots of my early efforts.
The first was reasonably straight forwad and a typical sort of object that needs to vanish, I did use a mask too
The second was more complicated with tree branches at the top of the image (no mask needed), People bottom centre (mask used) and the white marquee in the background, left side (mask used).
The latter was the most complicated and QU Vanish did an excellent job, as good as a normal clone tool I think.
Terry

Thanks Mike!
I've put some 2000 pixel versions on Flickr of the more difficult image.
Use the left/right arrows to swap beteen the 2 versions
Before
https://www.flickr.com/photos/terry-m_flickrphotos/26442022565/in/datetaken/lightbox/
After
https://www.flickr.com/photos/terry-m_flickrphotos/26416093046/in/datetaken/lightbox/

Terry

Mel,

Good questions.  I had hoped to cover them in more detail in the video but was trying to keep it to about 10 minutes.

The masks:
What you are doing with the mask is marking the area that gets affected by your vanishes.  By putting the mask over the mailbox, I can guarantee that only the areas that are masked off get changed by your vanishes.  It's a good way to make sure you don't "damage" other parts of the image because you are making sure that only the masked off areas are being changed.  Keep in mind that you can still vanish in other areas (outside the masked area) but for any vanish that intersects a mask, only the area inside the mask is changed even if the size of your vanish extends well beyond that region.  For the mailbox, we didn't really "need" a mask because the areas around the mailbox were pretty random.  The masks really come in handy though when you are trying to remove a pole or an extra person behind the top of your main subject's head.  You know you don't want to "warp" the image around the top of the main subject's head so you put masks on what you want to remove, making sure to mask just down to the main subject's head and stop there (no masks protruding into your subject).  That way you know the top of what you do NOT want to remove isn't getting damaged by the "warping" of the vanish tool near that area.

The dye:
A mask is basically just another use for the red eye tool.  If you want to remove red eye, you click on Mask/RE and click in the center of the red pupil and draw outward until the color is removed.  In masking, it essentially does the same thing: the masks just remove the color from inside the masks and makes them B/W (and a little darker).  That doesn't always show up very well if you put a mask over an area that is very dark, bright, or already near neutral (concrete sidewalk for example), so the dye just "injects" some dye into the mask circles so you can see exactly what is masked.  It's for visual reference only, to help with the vanish tool application.  If you put a mask on an image and you don't follow up with a vanish in that area, obviously the image will have a little B/W spot where your masks are.  That B/W area is really on your image: it's up to you to follow up with a vanish on top, else your image will have B/W blots on it.  By using the vanish, you are filling (vanishing) in the B/W blots.

So if you want to see what your image looks like with the masks and before you vanish, you look at it without the dye.  Use the dye as an on-screen "reveal" of the actual areas that are masked: so you can see if you missed spots and so you can more easily see the areas that are going to be filled when you use the vanish tool near those masks.

Mike

I should add that, like a cloning tool, practice makes perfect.  Practice on some objects to get the hang of it as it's a truly unique tool.  It's not meant to replace a cloning tool since cloning tools can also be used when you want to repeat/copy information to make more of something.  But for things you want to remove, the vanish tool can often do the job, sometimes easier than cloning when you get the hang of it.

Mike

Hello All

Still working on this feature.

I spent 2 hours yesterday on a test image, not successful.  I think I picked a difficult one, a Electricity Pylon on the skyline of snow covered hill with bits and pieces of blue sky and cloud involved.  Also tested with ACDsee and Elem 7 - no better.  I used the mouse and a Wacom.

I am right handed, about 60 years ago I fell down some stairs, a full flight on my backside (I am in polite mode)  and right elbow, ever since I have suffered from 'pins and needles' in right hand which can make intricate work a bit of a challenge.  Got it now just typing this. 

I will keep working at it - the Terry illustrations show it can be done!!

Jeff