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Author Topic: Qimage Ultimate Special Deal  (Read 12635 times)
Fred A
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« on: August 14, 2012, 09:27:47 PM »

I was tooling around, the Qimage Ultimate web page, and found some new promotion.
I see where Mike Chaney is selling Qimage Ultimate with a bonus for the next 3 weeks.
If you buy Ultimate by Sept. 3, 2012, you get a lifetime Camera Profile club membership which gives you access to any and all, current and future, camera profiles that Qimage has to offer.
If you have more than one camera, or buy a new camera, or if you have an older version of Qimage, and finally decided to take advantage of being able to shoot in RAW mode, this is the time to get Ultimate and free camera profiles for life.

If anyone does not acknowledge the benefit of using a custom camera profile, you probably have never seen the difference between with and without.
I am going to see if I can find some images that can show obvious differences.
If any of you out there can show any A vs B using a camera profile or not, please post it here.

Fred
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Jeff
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2012, 07:29:34 AM »

Looking forward to the before and after.

I know my camera Pentax K20d is probably a bit 'off'

Also viewing in the camera screen is way off colour, but no doubt this is a screen quality embedded jpeg issue.

Jeff
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Fred A
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2012, 02:33:22 PM »

Quote
I know my camera Pentax K20d is probably a bit 'off'

Also viewing in the camera screen is way off colour, but no doubt this is a screen quality embedded jpeg issue.

Jeff, Only yesterday, I had a discussion with a couple of photogs who constantly looked in teh viewer after the shot to see if it was too light or too dark, shadow detail too.
I explained that my very old CANON 20D allows me to change the brightness of the viewing screen in many steps. How can a person rely on that  view to judge shadow detail.
Better off to look at the histogram or take three shots with varying exposure.

« Last Edit: August 15, 2012, 05:28:31 PM by Fred A » Logged
Fred A
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« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2012, 03:29:55 PM »

Quote
Looking forward to the before and after.

I managed a little free time here... so here goes.
Bearing in mind that every brand/model will need or may not need similar color correction, you should be able to see a little of what my 20D profile  does to correct the colors.
Some profiles may correct an orange color for your camera, and for the next camera, it might correct too much yellow in the greens.

In my case, my profile is from 2008, and still going strong. You can see the red shirt has been corrected to a richer red. Same goes for the blue of the water and the pants, but the rest was not noticeably corrected.
Blue is a bit lighter and is correct. (For you colorimetrically challenged people, the Profiled image is on the right. Adobe color space on the left

I know for a fact that Terry recently purchased a new Canon 600D and proceeded to make a camera profile for it. I am hoping he can provide a fresher insight.
 Fred

I messed up the earlier image. This should be better I made a print to file image...   Top is camera profile, bottom, Adobe.
Thanks, Terry, I forgot
« Last Edit: August 18, 2012, 10:28:16 AM by Fred A » Logged
ed_k
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2012, 06:56:02 PM »

Don't like what happened to the hat.
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Jeff
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« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2012, 07:35:20 AM »



Jeff, Only yesterday, I had a discussion with a couple of photogs who constantly looked in teh viewer after the shot to see if it was too light or too dark, shadow detail too.
I explained that my very old CANON 20D allows me to change the brightness of the viewing screen in many steps. How can a person rely on that  view to judge shadow detail.
Better off to look at the histogram or take three shots with varying exposure.
[/quote]

Not being able to rely in camera screen quality I have the camera set to show - Blown highlights (red) block shadows (yellow) take first shot on P (professional or prat  Smiley Smiley) then retake on aperature/shutter/manual as takes my fancy and adjust until no blown highlights.  Then let QU do its stuff on the raw file.

Jeff

 

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Fred A
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« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2012, 09:16:35 AM »

Quote
Not being able to rely in camera screen quality I have the camera set to show - Blown highlights (red) block shadows (yellow) take first shot on P (professional or prat   ) then retake on aperature/shutter/manual as takes my fancy and adjust until no blown highlights.  Then let QU do its stuff on the raw file.

Here is why I do not have the problems that you seem to have.

Most of my pictures look like this. Do I care f the sky is clipped 42 miles out into the Gulf of Mexico?
What I do notice is that her wrist watch is on her right wrist, which likely means she is Left Handed.

Fred
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Terry-M
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« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2012, 08:50:35 AM »

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I know for a fact that Terry recently purchased a new Canon 600D and proceeded to make a camera profile for it. I am hoping he can provide a fresher insight.
Ok. got round to posting now.
I did comment on the advantages of custom camera profiles a few weeks ago on another thread here: http://ddisoftware.com/tech/qimage-ultimate/the-advantage-of-using-custom-camera-profiles-in-qimage-ultimate/
For convenience, I've attached the same comparison image here too. NB. This is not a screen shot but made using print-to-file from 2 images - this avoids any effects caused by the monitor profile.

Since my post mentioned above I have re-made the profile using an improved technique for photographing the IT8 target. This was done with advice from Mike who now recommends using a black background for the target instead of white. "White" card and paper have brighteners in the paper which have a detrimental effect on the colour balance of the target image.
I also made a little light box from black card to contain the target and minimise the risk of reflections from any surrounding features. See attached image below. In fact, only 3 sides were needed and the front side shown in the image below was discarded to avoid any shadow effects.
I had to wait for a day with reasonable periods of clear sky where the sun was not obscured in any way by clouds. The target was placed on the floor in a hallway close to an open outer door with the sun shining directly on the  target. This technique ensured the relatively dark surroundings of the hallway prevented any reflections on the target; if done out in the open, reflections of clouds and nearby objects are likely to appear on the image.
I do have Profile Prism so was able to make my own profile. However, I did send the image to Mike for approval and he made the profile that is now available for the 600D.

If you have a camera where a profile is not available, why not get hold of an IT8 target and make an image to send to Mike. I replaced my IT8 target before making the profile, it cost about 15 Euros direct from Wolf Faust, the same as used by Profile Prism.

Terry

« Last Edit: August 18, 2012, 08:53:12 AM by Terry-M » Logged
Fred A
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« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2012, 10:31:50 AM »

Quote
Don't like what happened to the hat.

You were right Ed, about the hat in the earlier post.
I messed it up.
Looking at the new one I just made, you can see the beige pots are excellent, not like the hat.

Then I went for a flu shot, and guess what I got?    24 hours... So I attacked my screw up.
Thanks for catching it.
Fred
Top is the camera profile.
Bottom is Adobe
« Last Edit: August 18, 2012, 10:33:45 AM by Fred A » Logged
DdeGannes
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2012, 01:30:14 PM »

The first image is with a Camera Profile the second one is without.
The images are from an Olympus E510 raw file converted in Qimage Ultimate.
Link to updated files. QimageUltimateProfile and QimageUltimateNoProfile.

http://g3.img-dpreview.com/54F2882906F340ED921974D2235637CD.jpg

http://g3.img-dpreview.com/6802918269F347B8914FFDA4B32844C7.jpg
« Last Edit: August 19, 2012, 02:14:03 PM by DdeGannes » Logged

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