Hi,

if it is the same model as the Epson Stylus Pro 4000 - a bulky, heavy desk top printer, takes roll paper, minimum sheet size A4, with vacuum to hold paper, has eight 1/4Litre ink tanks,  a few years old now, you will get no problems. I believe you can download the English drivers. Anyway, it's the printer I use with no problems with qimage (other than 'operator errors )

Best wishes,

Ray

Reviving this topic - has anyone tried crossover recently? Do you have to install windows printer drivers as well as qimage? Is it simple enough that 'the average' mac based photographer can use mac photoshop, and use qimage to print properly, or has there to be some other process? For example, what happens with Mac/pc format of image files?

If it installs, and it is simple to use and reliable, then I could see a load of potential mac customers - proper printing for around $150.00  .

Personally I know nothing about Macs - in 40 odd years of computing, I've only touched one once - and the software crashed.

Best wishes,

Ray

Fred - you certainly don't want a problem in your pants - not at your age 

Hi David,

setting print sizes is explained in a few of the videos her - http://www.ddisoftware.com/qimage-u/learn.htm  look at 2 and 3 I guess.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi,

I managed to find the pano stuff, from 2007.

The first jpg is all the images taken, walking along a balcony above the formal gardens.
http://www.yertiz.com/pic0608/all.jpg

The second was after stitching, using Hugin, iirc, or maybe it was pano tools. These are much compressed jpegs, of course
http://www.yertiz.com/pic0608/bart2.jpg

At the time of taking, I had no intention of stitching them together, and as you can see there was no consideration given by me to exposure, or direction of view, etc. I think the software did a pretty good job.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Terry,

I just noticed on your avatar, what appears to be an operating camera shutter. However, I think you should show it as a vertical shutter blind, and also the image could be upside down. If it were a reflection, instead of an exposure to the sensor, then you would not see the shutter operate. I think that you need to step further back, it seems far to cropped to me.

Best wishes,

Ray

The big one got away, that was just the bait 

Hi,

I've always used Hugin, I've successfully stitched a pano, even for images taken from different locations, I'll see if I can dig one out. I may try M$ ice. The real benefit is to simulate the narrow depth of field you get with large format lenses by using a telephoto lens.

Some beautiful images by 'Carstenw' can be found here http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27131 mainly of trees in his local park.

Best wishes,

Ray

Hi Jeff,

Correctly designed CIS systems and quality ink work fine. If you have 'air problems' - apart from the obvious pipe seals, etc., have you got the tanks at the correct level? The supplier should have explained, but for most systems, if the bottom of your tanks are on the desk, they are too low. They need to be at about the same level as the print head (too high, and you'll flood the head). Also, if you are not printing frequently, use dye instead of pigment inks - it clogs less and doesn't settle in the tanks. Humidity is a very important factor, something that many folk do not realise, when 'x' says "printer type abc always gets nozzle clogs"  and 'y' says "it never does". And then, there is the argument about switching the printer off between printing sessions, or leaving it on 

Best wishes,

Ray

I use a Firefox extension - http://www.downloadhelper.net/   - works fine  .

Best wishes,
Ray

Hi Jeff,


Well, tell the Dean it's about time they cleaned the masonry

Best wishes,

Ray

I forgot - I use a firefox add-on - 'ImageTweak'  (http://cafxx.strayorange.com/ImageTweak) and have the background colour set to dark grey, imho a better background colour for viewing images. That is what happens automatically when I click on http://jeffmilan.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v28/p387897558.jpg - the image embedded in the forum remains on the pale blue? background - but otherwise identical.

They look different because of the background colour of the window - the images are identical. I think you either need to crop it close to the people, or more or less completely remove the background building. The building shadow lines are too distracting. Perhaps you can select it and blur and fade the colours. This is where you need photoshop, or a more comprehensive specialist image editor, and some skill and time. I think the composition wrt the couple and the lamp-post, even the fence, is fine, it's just a shame about the building.

If you don't want to carry out some 'extreme editing' on the photo, then maybe return to the location, but this time take some dynamite with you 

Best wishes,

Ray

write an action for ps to load, 'convert' to argb, and save. Pass all the files through, and let it get on with it. It won't mess up the existing argb files. You most likely assumed, as many do, because you had assigned - assigned is the ps default anyway, sort of.

Hi MikeSp,

Adding to Terry's suggestion, often reds going to maroon if viewing/printing an srgb (or other) image in argb. It will always print OK (colourwise) in photoshop, if the image was edited in photoshop. It makes no difference there if you 'assign' a colourspace or if you 'convert' to a colourspace. However, before you save the image from photoshop for printing in Qimage, or any other colour managed print or view program, you need to 'convert' in photoshop to the correct colour space. If you have an assigned colour space in photoshop, it may not print correctly outside of photoshop (unless you have assigned the same colour space as is embedded in the image).

I would suggest that you check your settings in photoshop - under the 'Edit' tab, -  'Assign Profile' and 'Convert to Profile' (towards the bottom of the drop down menu), and use a sensible rendering intent, of course.

So, for example, in photoshop you can 'assign' pro-photo to your srgb image, so that you can carry out image editing, taking advantage of the smoother colour transitions obtained in sky and skin tones, and print within photoshop, since photoshop knows you have assigned pro-photo, but if you save the image, it will be saved as srgb. You must 'convert' the colourspace to srgb, or any  colourspace that the other print software can handle _before_ you save the file in photoshop. hth. 

Best wishes,

Ray