The file wouldn't open in Photoshop either, see screenshot. It opened in Affinity Designer, and it opened in QI when I re-exported it.

I digitise my negatives with my Canon M5, and the 'Invert' command in Photoshop (Image>Adjustments>Invert) also reverses the curves in the same way as QI, but all further adjustments work the 'right' way round. Perhaps Mike could add 'Invert' to QImage.

Brian P

I had to disable the firewall to install it.

Brian P

Hi

You can export the word document as a PDF, then open it in Photoshop or Affinity and 'Save As' a .tif or .jpg, or use the QI plug-in.

Brian P

The correct way is to re-calibrate the monitor at a lower brightness (luminance) setting. It will take a little trial and error to find the right setting.

Brian P

Thanks, Avatar suitably attired

Brian

Hi

The old brain cells have failed and I can't remember how to add text to a photo.  Could someone point me to a tutorial?

TIA

Brian

To add to what Terry and Fred said, If you are using Lightroom and Photoshop The advantage of using QI for printing are:

Sharper prints
The ability to save complete printer setups, including Paper size, paper type, colour profile,  and borderless (if used), and recall them with a few clicks.
The ability to save the completed job after printing, and recall it at any time in the future if you want to do a reprint.
These last two are worth he money alone!
The ability to add one or two borders to prints
the ability to add free text, or extract text from IPTC data and place it anywhere on the print or the page
The ability to set up layouts or templates, where you simply add a new print, prints or multiple sizes of prints to a custom set-up.

There is also the ease of use, where you easily add photos to the page at the required size.

There are also many other features such as raw file conversion which I don't use, but the list above makes it invaluable to me.

Brian

Matt

PSD is a  propitiatory Adobe format, and although it usually works in other programs there is never any guarantee that it will, as adjustment layers and smart filters can cause trouble. There is a setting in the PS preferences - Edit>Preferences> File Handling called 'Maximise PSD and PSD File Compatability' which should be set to 'Always', but it's best to avoid PSDs in general, as occasional problems will always occur. Saving as a maximum JPG is the best solution and will be faster to process, but if you are worried about compression saving as a TIF should work.

HTH

Brian

I think this will need a ready-made solution, such as

https://shop.photomart.co.uk/printers-media/dyesub/retail-kiosk-printers/new-edition-mitsubishi-mkg8125-smart-kioskgifts-plus-photo-print-station-with-metal-cover-and-printer.html

Brian

Terry is correct, the monitor brightness should be matched to the print from a profiled printer, not the other way round. The X-Rite default setting is usually 120 CD/M, but I have found that 110 or 100 gives the best setting, depending on your ambient light conditions. As Terry also says, it may take a few tries, possibly over a few days, to get the correct result.

Brian

Martin

Just a warning, be careful sending Prophoto images, most printers can't handle them properly. Check with them first, if they don't know what you are talking about then send everything in sRGB.

Brian

Grieg

Your workflow is exactly the same as mine, and I believe is the best one to use.
First, you do not lose any pixels when saving in aRGB as opposed to Prophoto - it's only the colour of the most saturated pixels that is changed when aRGB is used. These colours cannot be captured by your camera, cannot be seen on your monitor, and your printer can only print a very limited number of the saturated colours which lie outside the aRGB gamut, but are included in Prophoto. I doubt very much if these colours ever occur in a photograph, so saving in Prophoto is using a sledgehammer to crack a nut, and can lead to more problems that it solves.

Brian

George
If your prints are darker than your screen, then simply your screen is too bright. The default setting when you calibrate your screen is just a starting point, and must be adjusted to suit your ambient light conditions. The correct way to do this is to re-calibrate your screen to a lower luminence value. The default value is usually 120 cd/m which is almost always too bright - I use 110 in the summer and 100 in the winter - the correct value is when your screen matches your print.

HTH

Brian

Mike

I didn't think I needed the button until you put it in, but it's really useful. Thanks


Brian