I just tried WinRAR on the NEF and it compressed it a bit.  Just maybe it will squeak under their limit?  I've used YouSendIt in the past and I have to pay to join now.

Third's a charm...I hope....

add:

Bah!  It just bounced back too from their Mailer-Daemon.  Looks like it wouldn't fit either even though it shows only 15MB.  That 25MB limit (which is really only 20MB - and a lot less than that in real life!) is a joke.  For some reason even WinRAR compressed, it acts as if it is 3KB over their limit.

I give up.

Mack

Fred-

AT&T will not send the NEF.  It's been bounced back to me twice now with this:
Remote host said: 552 5.3.4 a message size of 20483 kilobytes exceeds the size limit of 20480 kilobytes computed for this transaction.  No go for a mere 3KB over!   

AT&T used to be limited to 25MB and now they are less than 20MB.  Seems they say to "limit size to no more than 8MB" now on their help site as other servers may not accept more than 8MB.  Wait until the cellphone cameras pass 20MB and no one can get anything.

They used to have Worldnet which could take a lot of server space.  They got rid of that.  Now they keep lowering the data capacity too, but their price goes up for even worse service.


Mack

Good question.  I haven't tried shooting with the camera in "Monochrome" mode only to see if it alters the NEF file to be 'only black and white' and no color available out of the subsequent image.  Short answer, I dunno?  I need to try that...
....

Okay.  I just tried "Monochrome" for a shot.  Sort of interesting results off that NEF file.

Adobe CS5 opens the "Monochrome" NEF in Color as does QU too.
Oddly, Nikon's Capture NX2 and View NX2, IrfanView, and DxO Optics Pro 6 opens the same "Monochrome" NEF as Black and White and not in color.   

Seems to be some variation in how each software addresses a NEF file coloration (monochrome) and the setting applied.  Seems odd Adobe and QU opens it in color and the others don't.  I thought it was only related to the JPEG inside the NEF, but appears they are reading something else to make it monochrome.


Oh, the word 'Normal' that I used above is 'Neutral' in the Color Settings while I was setting it to shoot Monochrome.

Mack

Fred-

Raw (NEF) image is on the way.  I tried it on "Auto Level" instead of the default of  "Smart exposure" and it looks much better on screen and the print should too. The Smart exposure print looks washed out (i.e. Less contrast and too light.).  Monitor is calibrated with Spyder3 and the prints appear much like it within 3-4 of the default Zero in Brightness, Contrast, Fill settings in the QU Editor.

Fwiw, the 'Normal' setting is one of the "Coloration" settings in the menu like Vivid, Portrait, Landscape, Monochrome, and Normal that Nikon put into the D7000.  Not related to White Balance.

Tia.

Mack

I haven't seen this in my NEF search on this site, but is there a plug-in RAW (Nikon NEF) filter for the D7000 that I need?

I find I have to turn the Brightness down to about -15, Contrast up to maybe +12, add a bit of Fill +3, and turn the Saturation way down to maybe -35 or so (Camera's 'color' is set to Normal).  A comparison NEF run through DxO Optics Pro 6 RAW conversion pretty much nails the TIFF, but QU seems to present a really overexposed and saturated NEF image off the D7000.

The camera is set to underexpose (as most owners are by setting -3/6 stop), but the QU2011.206 NEF images are way too light (overexposed).

Tia.

Mack

Found it!  Yay!

Off to load up about 20 sheets.  I set it for 8 minutes between prints and will see on the first couple.  Might have to go much longer as I see them dry very slowly from the edges in.  Seems yellowish at first on the dry down.

Thanks Fred.   

Mack

Got some ink smudges on the back of my prints out of a "It's faster than an Epson" Canon 9000 Mark II printer.  Seems the underlying prints were also marked up a bit in the process as the dye ink was still wet on the super-glossy Pictorico paper.

Led me to think, "Wouldn't it be nice if there was a way to set the printer to do a 'Time-Out between prints' so I could set and interval between them somehow so they could dry a bit before the next one goes in?"  I was reading the Canon data sheets where they suggested a minimum 15 minutes of drying time and/or stacking clean typing paper between the prints for drying.

Is there a way to do this somehow that I've overlooked?  I'd like to set maybe 15 minutes between prints and just go to sleep and let all the package of 25 sheets go through without having to rush over and grab one as it comes out to keep them from smudging up the backs and fronts in the stacking.

Mack

Thanks Mike.  That route worked.

Don't know why all the issues from within the "Yellow Logo" from within the Help > About Qimage on updating give me the errors.  It used to work, and same anti-virus firewall running (AVG). First one that was puzzling was the "Email not in our database" which I assume made it to the server connection.  Second was, "Unable to connect to verification server" (and that one is still there in 20120.200 as well).  From within the "Yellow Logo" I can get the "Release notes" webpage.  Just the "Update" link gives me errors.  Dunno.

Fwiw, I use Firefox as my default browser.  I did check the security in IE and it is at Medium.


Mack

Fred-

New error message (screen two following the "Okay to send email"' which shows my correct email address) is now "Unable to contact registration verification server.  Please try again later."  Got that message about 4 hours ago too after I got the first error of "Email address is not in our database" error message which is now gone.

Haven't changed my email address and the "Okay to send email to" is my correct one as sown on screen one of the update.

Something screwy someplace?


Mack

What the heck!  I got about 7 weeks left in Ultimate (exp. 11-16) and I get this message that "My email address is not in the database" and it won't update to 2012.200?

Bug?


Mack

So I get a profile with Profile Prism 7.  I name it "Epson Ultra Luster.icm"  Install it in Windows 7.  Good to go.

I make a test print of the one included in the Profile Prism folder using QI Ultimate with the above profile and find it a little light and maybe too green.

Back into the Edit part of PP 7 and I match the test print above to the right one as shown in the Edit window (the rightmost one).

I slide the sliders until the Test Print and the right screen image in the Editor match.


Now the issue...

When I exit, I assume I need to rename the ICM file to something other than "Epson Ultra Luster.icm" above as the program asks?  Maybe renamed to "Epson Ultra Luster 2"?

I'd like it to get rid of the original "Epson Ultra Luster.icm" but it appears it needs that file "forever" with the slider adjustments that it retains?  I have a half dozen tweaked profiles now and the subsequent numbering is getting too many profiles showing with each alteration of the original ICM file I make.

Can I get the "Epson Ultra Luster.icm" to be saved with the slider filter or whatever it uses for the adjustment saved together, rather than "Epson Ultra Luster 2.icm" and "Epson Ultra Luster 3.icm" ... etc.?

I find if I renamed the ICM file in the Windows Color Folder to "Epson Ultra Luster.icm" it still shows the profile out of the editor in QI Ultimate as "Epson Ultra Luster 2.icm" so I guess the Editor writes into the file itself the name out of the Editor and my changing it to "Epson Ultra Luster.icm" there still shows it as "Epson Ultra Luster 2.icm" still.


Mack

On my monitor, the left side appears warmish (red) while the right side has a cyanish cast (or towards the green too since they are easily confused unless you view them through a "Lee Color Print Viewing Filter" set or the old "Kodak Print Viewing Filter Set" to make the determination.).  A minor change in the QU Color Settings tab makes a big difference too and I work down to the 0.98 level at times to tweak a print.

Northern light window shots causes me headaches as all sorts of colors come in from reflected light.  I see blue sometimes from skylight on an arm or leg more buried in the shadows, and then warm daylight in the most lighted areas, to a color cast off the surrounding frame and paint coloration off the window or room in other shadow areas.

Sometimes the best thing to do is make a copy mask and then grab the paint brush tool, after having a selected color loaded into it that I want, and paint with it at a greatly reduced setting of maybe 5%-15%.  Sometimes I can click on the problem area and mask it and change the Kelvin to get the photo into alignment.

To that end, I made up a large translucent 5x6 foot scrim that I place two high-power 1800 ws studio units behind that drown out any odd color casts when doing northern light stuff.  Might want to bail if it gets too tedious and go to some B&W with maybe a coloration filter you can adjust like in the newer Topaz B&W plugin or similar.


Mack

I noticed in "Job Properties" the settings for 'Resolution' are in PPI (i.e. 607 PPI, 303 PPI, 202 PPI, etc.).  Shouldn't that be DPI and not PPI? 

Thought PPI was "Pixels Per Inch" for camera sensors, unless it is something else in printer speak where they are DPI (or "Dots Per Inch").

Sort of very odd numbers too (607, 303, 202, 151 PPI) unless that is the true printer resolution?


Mack

I sent an message and posted to the Adobe board.  Wait and see I guess.

It is odd why the Adobe JPG file I re-sized is about 4 KB larger than the same one done in PSP X3.  If it is leaving remains of another header behind, then maybe that's why I got a "Corrupt file" from a server message?

I did read somewhere that the CS5 JPG compresses more below a setting of 6-7 as it redoes the chroma or something.  Here it is:  http://forums.dpreview.com/news/1108/11082915jpegupdate.asp  Anyway, both mine were set to max. level of "Not to compress" in both files so who knows.  Might not be related though.


Mack

I saw this thread this AM and am also running the CS5 12.0.4 x64 version.  I have their Beta ACR also installed as it popped up with the original RAW file about only being good for som many days until I need to update it.

I just finished working on some image and saved it out to a JPG (I saved it as "Adobe 1998" color space) to send to someone.  In a few seconds, the email server responded with "Corrupt File, or it exceeds the 25MB AT&T/Yahoo limit.  Try again?"  Say huh?  It's only a small 357 KB JPG, but it won't go through for some reason.

I took the same file that wouldn't go through and opened it in Paint Shop Pro X3 and saved it out to a different named JPG.  It got accepted and sent on it's way.  The Adobe CS5 one won't go through their email server.  The Adobe JPG was 357KB and the re-saved PSP X3 one is 355KB, or 2KB less.  Don't know why the difference.

Something is indeed screwy with CS5 12.0.4 x64 in JPEG land.


Mack